French Polynesia: paradise on earth
If paradise existed, it would undoubtedly be French Polynesia. The archipelago truly defies all imagination: pearly white beaches and beautiful lagoons, the friendly people living to the rhythm of nature and the surprising, tropical gastronomy... Like me, surrender to the wind, sun and water of French Polynesia.
Island hopping through French Polynesia
35 years ago, I lost my heart in French Polynesia. It is a beautiful travel destination where nature is still truly unspoiled. The clear blue sea blends seamlessly into volcanic mountainsides. You feast your eyes on the tropical vegetation and exotic flowers.
The area is part of Polynesia, an archipelago of 118 islands in the Pacific Ocean. French Polynesia itself then consists of 5 administrative units: the Marquesas Islands, Tuamotu-Gambier, Windward Islands, Leeward Islands, Austral Islands. Officially it belongs to France, but the country has its own government. The recognized languages are French and Tahitian and the capital is Papeete. Vanilla and noni - or Indian mulberry - are its main exports
Stop 1: Taha'a, the island of vanilla
Ia ora n'a! After a 36-hour journey, that enthusiastic greeting is music to my ears. Finally, I am back in the paradise I fell in love with years ago. It makes the exhausting journey more than worth it.
I set foot with my husband in Taha'a, the island of vanilla. The Polynesians are incredibly hospitable and welcome us with open arms. Meanwhile, I can feel the evening sun glowing on my skin, while the warm breeze provides coolness. We start our adventure at a cozy little restaurant on the beach. Feet in the sand, garland of flowers around the neck, as we enjoy the beautiful view. We overlook a lagoon, full of shades of blue and green. The waitress brings us a glass of wine, blissful after that long journey. Our journey will still take us to Bora Bora and the Marquesas Islands. But for now, I am mostly enjoying the moment, waiting impatiently for that plate of fresh, grilled fish....
Discover Taha'a by bicycle
The next day we rent an electric bike from Anaïs, a compatriot from Namur who followed her heart and has been living on Taha'a for several years.
Rum tasting at Domaine Pari Pari
The first stop on our tour: the rum distillery Pari Pari. It's still early in the day, but we can't resist the rum made from local sugar cane. The gold medal-winning rum is really worth tasting, regardless of the time of day.
The rum distillery is operated by Christine and her husband Laurent. Years ago they traded their busy lives in Bordeaux for the quiet island life. They wouldn't want to return for anything in the world, they tell us. We receive a warm welcome at Domaine Pari Pari, like everywhere else on Taha'a. Laurent, formerly active in the wine industry, tells us about the years of searching and testing. In the end, he succeeded in producing a world-class rum. The company works with local growers who bring the sugar cane directly to the distillery themselves. This way the cane to be pressed immediately after being cut. The distillery’s pot still was custom-made in Germany and is the pride of Domaine Pari Pari.
In addition to rum, Laurent and Christine also produce virgin oils, coconut and tamanu nut soaps. They sell their products in the little shop next to the distillery. As we tour the grounds, we taste three kinds of rum. We are impressed: Laurent really knows his business. We buy a bottle of rum with vanilla and continue our bicycle tour knowing that pleasant sundowners await us the following evenings.
Vallée de la Vanille
We continue our bicycle tour and take in the beauty of our surroundings. I don't want to miss the next stop for anything in the world. The Vallée de la Vanille is the estate of Moeata and Brian, located in the mountains near Faaaha. It is the only traditional vanilla plantation on the island. The others are greenhouse plantations where vanilla plants are grown on support poles under a structure of nets. These provide the shade the plants need and protects them from diseases and parasites. In addition, a ground cover of coconut bark gives the necessary fertilization and moisture control.
The greenhouse plantations are not open to the public, but Vallée de la Vanille can be visited. We are ready for a dive into the world of vanilla. In addition to the educational tour of the plantation, there is a shop where we can buy the noble product in all its forms. In the store, Moeata sells vanilla pods in airtight packaging, in various sizes and weights. We also see vanilla powder, extract and paste. Furthermore, the counter is full of honey and rum with vanilla, as well as beauty product such as the famous monoi oil and various ointments for the skin. For me, it’s all about pure vanilla and I take home a load of intensely aromatic vanilla pods for myself and the enthusiasts at home.
After saffron, vanilla is the most expensive spice in the world. As we learn on the tour, this is not surprising. It takes an enormous amount of time and attention to arrive at the vanilla pod we know and use. Online you quickly pay three to five times what I paid locally. It's still expensive, but I carry half a kilo of pure delight with me in my suitcase.
Poisson cru at Maitai restaurant
With half a kilo of vanilla in my basket, we cycle on through Taha'a and arrive hungrily at the bay of Ha'amene. In the small town of Ha'amenu, we stumble upon Maitai, one of the scarce, if not only restaurant on the island. We claim the last available table on the terrace and have a beautiful view of the lagoon. On the menu, I spot one of my favorite Polynesian dishes: poisson cru à la Tahitienne. An absolute must-try!
Chef Bruno knows how to prepare the dish superbly. A native of Normandy, he has lived on Taha'a for 30 years. His classic French education and experience with local ingredients are the perfect combo to conjure up delicious dishes. We chat and he shares all sorts of tips and tricks around vanilla in savory preparations.
Stop 2: Nuku Hiva and the Marquesas Islands
After Taha'a, we head to Nuku Hiva, the largest of the Marquesas Islands. The island is all about mountains and coastline. The highest peak is Mount Tekao with an elevation of 1224m.
We take the bicycles provided by the hotel free of charge to explore the local fishing village. We get up at 6 a.m. and ride along the beach. The final stop: the small fishing port. The fishermen arrive in small boats stocked with large cooler boxes. On the quay, we spot rows of wooden tables where the fishmongers get ready to clean the fish. The tables are scrubbed clean and trays of ice are ready to keep the fish chilled.
I look into the boxes and I am puzzled. The tuna have no head or tail! It seems the fishermen cut them off at sea to save space. There the sharks feast on them, but also near the quay, they are ready to claim their share.
I don't know where to look first: the masterful cutting of the tuna or the sharks fighting for their skin. It is a true spectacle and I enjoy it to the fullest.
One of the fishmongers cuts a slice of fresh tuna from the bone with his machete and I get to taste it. The piece of tuna melts in my mouth. Aaah... I am already looking forward to lunch!
Island fries in Le Nuku Hiva
We are enjoying our stay at hotel Le Nuku Hiva. The resort is located at the foot of the mountain, surrounded by tropical vegetation. From our lodge, we have a stunning view of Taiohae Bay.
One evening I order rum-flambéed giant shrimp served with island fries. I have no idea of what to expect, but I like to try out new things. The waitress returns with a mix of thinly cut French fries made from regular and sweet potato, sprinkled with flaky salt and vanilla powder. A surprising combination in flavor that you can easily make at home!
Our addresses in French Polynesia
Hotels
- Le Taha'a by Pearl Resorts, Taha'a
- Conrad Bora Bora Nui, Bora Bora
- Le Nuku Hiva, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas islands
- Hanakee Lodge, Hiva Oa, Marquesas islands
- Hilton, Papeete,Tahiti
Must-do
- Rum distillery Domaine Pari Pari on Taha'a
- E-bike rentals by Anaïs at Mana'o distillery, Taha’a
- Vanilla plantation La Vallée de la Vanille, also on Taha'a
- Restaurant Maitai, Taha'a
- Tahiti Pearl Market, a pearl farm on Taha'a with boutiques on Bora Bora and Tahiti
- Rent a scooter from Avis Bora Bora
- A jeep safari on Tupuna mountain, organized by 4WD Tours Bora Bora
- Loveboat Bora Bora: your private champagne sunset cruise
- Masson Art Gallery Bora Bora, for hand-painted pareos
- Maison des artisans, for the local art of Nuku Hiva
- Go horseback riding with Nui on Nuku Hiva
- Visit Espace Brel on Hiva Oa, a small museum dedicated to the musician
- Enjoy the local cuisine of Hiva Oa at Chez Marie-Antoinette
- Immortalize your visit to French Polynesia with a Polynesian tattoo by expert Ahi Teikitu. Instagram #te_ahi_patiki
