Day two in Cogne, northern Italy
New day, new adventure. We are in Cogne, a picturesque mountain village in beautiful northern Italy. In the first blog in this series, I told you all about this small paradise on earth, located in the middle of the Aosta Valley. Time for day two in Cogne, which has a lot of good things in store for us....
Waking up in the heavenly Aosta Valley, a good start to Day 2!
As we wake up at the Bellevue Hotel, the light of the rising sun sets the glaciers of the Gran Paradiso ablaze. The day promises to be beautiful and warm, but first breakfast beckons.The Jeantet-Roullet family who runs the hotel has tremendous respect for the environment and traditions of the Cogne Valley. As we head down for breakfast, a sumptuous buffet awaits us with homemade breads, pastries and jams, local honey, home-smoked meats and in-house affined cheeses. The buffet reflects the family’s respect for local products and cuisine. The cappuccino is perfect and the water on the table comes from pure springs located on the northern flanks of the Gran Paradiso. I am delighted and, of course, eat more than I am used to. A brisk walk is the best cure for this, so we put on our mountain boots and head outside.
Hike to Lillaz: waterfalls and gelato
On a hot summer day in the Gran Paradiso National Park there is nothing like hiking alongside the Lillaz Falls. A flat trail takes you from Cogne to Lillaz in ten minutes. There the Urtier River plunges 150 meters down three separate waterfalls. Follow the path further upstream to the top of the highest point. Along the trail there are pools and small beaches where you can refresh yourself. The water brings a wonderful coolness on hot summer days.
Gelato nocciola at Gelateria Dolce X Natura
After the beautiful hike, we head back down to the village. Along the way, we stumble upon the artisanal ice cream parlour Gelateria Dolce X Natura. It is actually more a hole-in-the-wall than an ice cream parlour, but an absolute must-do after the effort. Apparently, we are not the only ones craving ice cream. A long line of patient tourists extends from the counter into the street. The service is quick and the ice cream so delicious that it is worth the wait. Happiness lies in small things, as this gelateria proves once again.
I go for gelato nocciola: hazelnut ice cream, one of the regional specialties. Hazelnuts grow in several places in Italy, but the nuts from neighbouring Piedmont are known worldwide. They are among the best in the world. I eagerly eat my ice cream and in my mind an idea of a dessert, affogato nocciolato, takes shape.
Roberto's vegetable garden
Back at the hotel, I discover the kitchen garden, the hotel’s showpiece. The garden is centrally located in front of the large terrace. Roberto, the garden’s caretaker, has been removing weeds since dawn. The vegetable garden is planted in the form of a circle that is enclosed by a crescent bed of kitchen herbs. The pattern symbolizes the sun and the moon. With his green thumb, Roberto sows, plants and harvests all the vegetables, herbs and flowers for the four restaurants. At Bellevue Hotel & Spa, the principle of local consumption is taken at heart.
More herbs than I can count
Roberto loves to show off his vegetable garden and explains the herbs and vegetables with enthusiasm. I spot Swiss mint, grown from a plant offered by the CEO of Ricola, the mountain candy manufacturer. There is also hyssop, a minty herb used to stuff the belly cavity of fish. Furthermore, parietta graces the garden, an endemic, aromatic herb that grows only in the Aosta Valley. It is related to santoreggia or savory. The tour continues and Roberto shows me nepinella, a type of wild mint used especially in mushroom preparations. There is also sage from Lucca. It has a large and thick leaf, making it ideal for frying. With a pinch of salt on top, you get a great-tasting, crunchy snack. Perfect with a fresh cocktail! By way of farewell, Roberto offers me a sprig of edelweiss flowers. They also grow luxuriantly in his garden.
Dinner at Michelin-starred restaurant Le Petit Bellevue
We end the day in a delightful way with dinner at Le Petit Bellevue. The tiny restaurant has only six tables, but it has earned a Michelin star. Chef Niccolo De Riu serves dishes that bear witness of originality without straying too far from local traditions. The menu changes according to the availability of ingredients, including those from the hotel's vegetable garden
A pasta to remember
One of the dishes that stays with me is the pasta with wild celery from Aosta. That endemic plant only grows above the altitude of 1100 meters, but can be compared to our lovage or maggi plant. The wild Aosta celery is only subtler in taste. Roberto grows the celery in his vegetable garden.
Rino, our sommelier, informs me that Chef Niccolo used black cardamom in the dish. This surprises me, as it is a very distinct spice from the Himalayas. The smoky flavor of the cardamom blends very well with the mussels in this dish. Furthermore, its notes of eucalyptus and citrus bring an extra layer of flavor to the celery pesto.
I make a mental note of the flavors of the pasta dish so I can prepare my own version at home.
