Cheese and wine on our third day in Cogne
When Didier and I travel, we not only enjoy the culture and scenery of the places we visit; our taste buds go into overdrive as well. On our trip to the northern Italian village of Cogne, we tasted one delicious specialty after the other. What really blew us away? The cheese and wine!
Roberto, master affineur of the Bellevue Hotel
Roberto is a real jack-of-all-trades at the Bellevue Hotel. Besides taking care of the (vegetable) garden, he has other arrows on his bow. Although his great passion lies in the affinage of cheeses. The cheese cellar is his domain and as a master affineur he ripens the best cheeses of the region, not to mention the parmesan cheese and the DOP cheeses of Bergamo. He consents with pleasure to a visit to his treasure trove.
He opens the door and we are met by a pleasant smell. The wheels of cheese are arranged very precisely by variety, a delight to the eye. A feeling of pleasure and serenity descends upon us. Roberto explains us the most important aspects for ripening cheese: temperature, humidity and air circulation. Hygiene is another very important factor. Cross-contamination between different cheeses must be avoided at all cost. So, when Roberto brushes a cheese wheel, he also washes the board on which the wheel was placed.
DOP cheeses, parmesan and fontina
With justifiable pride, Roberto talks about the DOP cheeses from the Bergamo region: the delicate quintano, the creamy robiola and, of course, the aromatic taleggio. He also talks about the acclaimed parmesan cheese. In winter the humidity in the cellar is optimal, but during the summer months the mountain air is very dry. That's why Roberto rubs the parmesan wheels with oil during affinage. In the Parma region the climate is always very humid so this extra handling is not necessary
Roberto does not hide his love for the local fontina. He proudly displays his collection of the alpine cheese with different grades and stages of maturation. Roberto tells us that the rind is susceptible to mites. To protect it, he rubs the cheeses with neutral linseed oil.
Prize-worthy fontina
The hotel purchases the fontina from Leo Bétemps of Bionaz. His alpine cheese has already won several awards at the Concours Fontina d'alpages. The cows graze in mountain pastures at an altitude of 1600 meters. Here, grassy plants and flowers such as wild thyme, violets, gentian, rhododendron and yarrow grow in abundance. As a result, the cows produce milk of very high quality, which in turn gives a special taste and aroma to the fontina d'alpages.
All the cheeses from Roberto's cellar are used in the hotel's four restaurants, but the lion's share goes to the Bar à Fromages. It is a typical mountain restaurant where guests enjoy large quantities of fondue and raclette.
As we say goodbye, I buy a piece of fontina and parmigiano Reggiano from Roberto. Once at home, I use the cheeses in a risotto with fontina and truffle.
Rino's wine cellar
Didier and I are wine lovers and we are always curious to discover new grape varieties and wine regions. Every evening we strike up a chat with Rino, the hotel's sommelier. He serves us several lesser-known Italian wines that we enjoy tasting.
Passion for Wine award
Rino is not the first the best sommelier. In 2020, he won the prestigious Michelin award Passion for Wine. That recognition is awarded to professionals committed to spreading knowledge, conscious consumption and appreciation of quality Italian wines.
2000 wine bottles in the cellar
Rino's wine cellar houses an impressive collection of nearly 2,000 labels. We witness his passion and care for the wines as he moves smoothly among the boxes and racks. His perfect knowledge of each label allows him to describe the characteristics of each wine. Quiet music echoes in the background, garlands of wine corks adorn the ceiling. At his request, I write a word of appreciation on the wall. The messages remind him daily of the hotel guests who share in his passion and who were allowed to enter his domain.
The House of Anselmet
We conclude our trip with a visit to the wine estate Anselmet, recommended to us by Rino. At the winery, three generations make wine together using endemic and international grape varieties. All work is done manually and the production process is tailored to the individual characteristics of the wine.
At Anselmet, light and fresh wines accompany powerful and elegant varieties
We are warmly welcomed by father Renato. He tells us the history of the family and the vineyard. The estate now manages about ten hectares of vineyards, located in terraced plots on the sunny slopes around the Dora Baltea, a tributary of the Po River. Thanks to the collaboration with Beppe Caviola, one of the most respected contemporary oenologists, the label managed to produce not only light and fresh wines but also powerful and elegant ones.
We taste both white and red young wines, learning about the essential characteristics and freshness of the Aosta Valley. Renato quickly realizes our interest in their elegant and complex crus. He therefore offers us the chance to taste these beautiful wines as well.
Autochthonous grape varieties
Nearly 2 million bottles fall under and are protected by the AOC designation Vallée d'Aoste. Almost 70% of them are intended for local consumption. The wines are made with native grape varieties, many of which we also find at Anselmet. The local ones like fumin, mayolet, cornalin and petit rouge are grown in smaller quantities. The dominant grape varieties are müller-thurgau, pinot nero, pinot grigio, pinot bianco, chardonnay and syrah.
We return home with a fine selection of wines to enjoy both now and in a few years.
Our addresses in Cogne
- Bellevue Hotel & Spa, Cogne: 4-star hotel belonging to Relais&Chateaux. The hotel has 4 restaurants and an extensive spa.
- Gelateria Dolce X Natura: artisanal ice cream parlour in Lillaz.
- La Cave de Cogne: osteria and wine store in the center of Cogne, Via Bourgeois. Reservations are required. La Cave de Cogne has a wonderful wine selection.
- La Maison du Goût, Cogne: delicatessen in Rue Mines de Cogne.
- Marché aux Puces, Cogne: ideal for gifts, clothing, decoration. The store is part of the Bellevue Hotel.
- Maison Anselmet, Fraz. Vereytod 30, 11018 Villeneuve. The tasting is by appointment only and can be booked through Giorgo Anselmet, +39 0165 904851