The ocean on your plate
Scotland has more than 30 000 lochs, 125 000 km of streams and rivers and 18 000 km of coastline, including the 800+ islands. With the depths of the Atlantic Ocean, North Sea and Irish Sea on its doorstep, Scotland boasts an impressive fishing fleet that brings tons of fresh fish and seafood ashore daily. Not surprisingly, you'll find numerous restaurants and shacks that serve some of the freshest and tastiest seafood. Join me on my trip and discover some of the best seafood restaurants in Scotland.
Fishers in the City, Edinburgh
We are hungry as we arrive in Edinburgh and ask the hotel concierge about a seafood restaurant nearby. He enthusiastically recommends to us Fishers in the City which is a stone's throw away.
May your lum reek well
We receive a warm welcome at the busy, no-nonsense brasserie-style seafood restaurant. There is a young vibe and local patrons add to the casual cozy atmosphere. Friendly Scots at the small table next to ours praise their beloved city, Scottish singer Andy Stewart and Harry Potter. They bid us farewell and wish us may your lum reek well, the Scottish expression for a long and happy life.
East meets west
Fishers has a great selection of Scottish oysters, lobster, seafood and surf and turf dishes . They also offer Asian inspired dishes. While we start with fresh oysters from the waters around Oban, impressive quantities of fish and chips pass by our table. Next, we have steamed mussels in Korean broth with cilantro, lime and young onion. They are the most delicious mussels I have ever eaten, and I’m inspired to try that dish out in my kitchen.
Anstruther Fish Bar and Restaurant, East Neuk
We’re out for a day of road-tripping along the East Neuk of Fife, the spectacular coastline north of Edinburgh. The road takes us past picturesque fishing villages bursting with tradition and charm. The largest village is Anstruther, home to the Smith fishing family and their world-famous seafood restaurant, Anstruther Fish Bar and Restaurant.
Fishermen at heart
The Smith family have been fishermen at heart for many generations. Grandfather Robert was a prominent captain who passed on his knowledge to his son David. He stood, in turn, at the helm of the Argonaut, a 72-foot fishing boat, for many years. Thus, the successful fishing family built a solid reputation in the Scottish world of fishing. Grandson Robert was color blind and could not become a skipper himself. But blood is thicker than water and he decides to start a fish processing company. At Argofish, Robert makes sure the best fish is selected and filleted by hand. The job is intensive and technical, but it yields a product of high quality.
Fish and chips
In 2003, Robert and his wife Alison purchased the iconic Anstruther Fish Bar, located in the small fishing harbor. A board displays the catch of the day, with the name of the fishing boat mentioned beside it. There is turbot, monkfish, sole and halibut as well as lobster and crab, locally caught and freshly cooked. The best seller and star of the menu is the Scottish haddock. The fish is breaded or fried in a thin and crispy layer of dough. We indulge in a delicious portion of fish and chips, served with homemade tartar sauce. Anstruther Fish Bar and Restaurant is one of the happy few to have been crowned UK Fish and Chip Shop of the Year in recent years, and rightly so!
Ee-usk, Oban
When you go island hopping along the west coast of Scotland, you inevitably end up in the town of Oban, the gateway to the Hebrides and the main departure port of CalMac Ferries. We have some time to spare and head to the busy seafood restaurant Ee-usk for lunch, located on the North Pier.
What does Ee-usk mean?
Ee-usk is the Gaelic word for fish, and there is plenty of it in this popular place on the North Pier. The restaurant is owned by the MacLeod family. They have been serving fish in the buildings with the iconic red roof for 25 years. And did you know that Ee-usk serves only locally caught seafood?
A light lunch
We opt for a light lunch and order some sharing plates. We are tempted by the Ee-usk fishcakes with fresh and smoked salmon and served with cucumber dressing and pickled onion. Delicious! Next, we order a refreshing salad with crab, mussels, scallops and squid. We finish lunch with locally caught langoustines, grilled to perfection. The waters around Oban are teeming with langoustines, so there is no better place to enjoy them.
Seafood Bar at the Crinan Hotel, Lochgilphead
At the northern tip of the Crinan Canal lies Crinan, a tiny fishing village with no more than 80 residents. Much of life here is centered around the unusual Crinan Hotel. During its 200-plus years of existence, countless boaters, fishermen, tourists and food lovers passed by to enjoy the local delicacies. For the last 50 years, the hotel has been owned by the Ryan family. They made the Seafood Bar the hot spot in the region.
From cullen skink to giant lobster
As we step inside the Seafood Bar, we immediately sense the homey coziness of the gastropub. The popular family hotel is fully booked, and we can just manage to get a table. The restaurant is known for its tasty seafood dishes. The Loch Crinan shrimp cocktail is legendary, but I opt for cullen skink. The creamy soup with smoked haddock, leeks and potato is a very typical Scottish dish. The next dish that catches my attention is the steamed lobster, caught around the Isle of Jura. The lovely Delia places a huge specimen in front of me and for the first time, I fail to finish a lobster completely. I am defeated by a Scottish lobster. It makes me curious about the weight. The chef measures the leftovers of the head in my plate with his hand and estimates it was a lobster of just over 1 kg. In this restaurant lobsters are not weighed. The price is a set price regardless of weight.
Loch Fyne Oyster Bar and Restaurant, Clachan, Cairndow
At the upper tip of Loch Fyne, along the beautiful Argyll coastline, lies the hamlet of Clachan. Fish and seafood lovers from all over the world flock here just to get a table at Loch Fyne Oyster Bar and Restaurant, the best seafood restaurant in the United Kingdom.
How it all began
It began with the idea of restoring the local oyster beds at the top of Loch Fyne. Johnny Noble and marine biologist Andy Cane joined forces and founded the Loch Fyne Oyster Farm in the 1970s. A few years later, they start selling their oysters in a stall along the picturesque A83. Fast forward 20 years and their business has grown into a major supplier of not only oysters but also fresh and smoked fish and seafood. They supply hotels, restaurants, stores and even airlines. The stall is now a restaurant and store where celebrities, politicians and tourists enjoy a delicious meal.
Loch Fyne seafood platter
I love fish and seafood and can’t wait to taste the local delicacies. The Loch Fyne seafood platter contains a whole brown crab, a Tarbert lobster, Loch Fyne oysters, langoustines, some huge scallops and a dozen squat lobsters. This lesser-known, tiny crustacean resembles a langoustine with long spider-like legs and claws. Squat lobsters live at the bottom of the sea where they are eaten mainly by other fish. There is not really a market for squat lobsters because they spoil very quickly and there is not much to munch on. But what the lobster lacks in quantity, it makes up for in flavor. You can easily push the sweet, aromatic tail meat out of the thin, delicate shell. Next, we tackle the brown crab. It's quite a hassle to pick the juicy crab meat out of the legs, but it's worth the effort! We feast on the rest of the incredibly delicious seafood platter, and are back on our way, feeling satisfied.