Gourmet cuisine on the Isle of Skye

Hotspot 1: Kinloch Lodge

If there is one person responsible for fine dining in a country that has ten times more sheep than people, it is undoubtedly Lady Claire MacDonald. Claire and her husband Godfrey MacDonald are the heart and soul of Kinloch Lodge. They transformed a centuries-old family estate into a cozy, timeless hotel serving delicious food.

The early years

In 1970, Lord Godfrey MacDonald became the High Chief of Clan MacDonald and inherited the ancestral lands upon the death of his father. After paying off all the family debts, little remained but the family's dilapidated hunting lodge. The young Lord and his wife Lady Claire decided to remodel the estate, located on the estuary of Loch Na Dal. Its unique location made it an ideal place to establish a hotel while raising a family. With no formal training but with a passion for hospitality and good food, and of course a good dose of perseverance, the MacDonald family created Kinloch Lodge. The whole family assisted in every aspect of hotel life. Claire emerged as a true chef and took full charge of the kitchen. But it didn't stop there. Claire wrote cookbooks, about 20 in all, taught cooking classes and became the ambassador of Scottish gastronomy. 

Fast forward 50 years

What began with four guests on April 4, 1972, is 50 years later one of the most sought-after hot spots in Scotland. Daughter Isabella MacDonald now heads Kinloch Lodge and is passionately engaged in every aspect of the business. The kitchen is run by chef Jordan Webb. Like Claire, he is loyal to the island and to the roots of the lodge and the family. With his international experience, Chef Webb gives a modern twist to Claire's classic recipes. The result? Kinloch Lodge serves modern dishes, sophisticated but unpretentious, prepared with local, seasonal ingredients of excellent quality.

Our experience

Kinloch Lodge is all about welcoming and warm hospitality. The energetic and warm-hearted Isabella makes sure every guest feels right at home at the lodge. The family feel is present all around with paintings and photos of ancestors and family members.

The food at Kinloch Lodge is absolutely delicious. The sharing plates are all picture-perfect and mouth-watering, but my preference is the Ayrshire pork belly with Korean barbecue sauce and Kinloch kimchi. The local mussels with a heavenly creamy white wine sauce are plump and juicy. And then there's the sirloin steak from Highland beef...divine!

Hotspot 2: Edinbane Lodge

During our four days on the Isle of Skye we want to have as many culinary experiences as possible. On the last evening, we drive to Edinbane Lodge for a true tasting experience.

The Lodge of Calum and Eilidh Montgomery

Anno 2017. Chef Calum Montgomery, born and raised on the Isle of Skye, is ready for his ultimate dream after multiple experiences as a chef and sous chef in the United Kingdom and Denmark. With the help of his family and his wife Eilidh, he acquires an abandoned and dilapidated, 16th-century hunting pavilion. The renovations take a full year, and in 2018 the restaurant is ready to welcome its first guests. Four rooms are finished the following year. Edinbane Lodge's restaurant radiates a no nonsense, cozy atmosphere and the rooms have a classic contemporary décor with the natural tones of the Isle of Skye.

Scottish Chef of the Year 2023

Calum Montgomery is not just your everyday chef. His training under the watchful eye of Masterchef Pro winner Gary Maclean and his experiences at Kinloch Lodge, Ullinish Lodge and Frederikshoj** have prepared him to become Chef of the Year 2023. Along with that, the restaurant itself was also awarded Restaurant of the Year 2023 by the Scottish Excellence Awards. Calum wears the Isle of Skye on his sleeve. With the exception of Highland Wagyu beef, cheddar from the Isle of Mull and some Orkney dairy products, all ingredients come from Skye. As Calum and Eilidh themselves say, their suppliers, from fishermen to sheep farmers, are mostly relatives or childhood friends. Calum works only with partners who share the same profound respect for local ingredients and traditions. And he extends that dedication to the plates on which he presents his dishes. Edinbane Pottery's handmade pottery and functional ceramics adorn the tables.

A taste of Skye

The beautiful tasting menu, A Taste of Skye, is a real surprise. The dishes are all gems in which local ingredients play the starring role. Three types of homemade bread are served with local salted butter on the one hand and whipped smoked butter on the other. A treat! The oysters from the nearby Isle of Bute and the monkfish with Edinbane wild garlic are exquisite, not to mention the Highland Wagyu, served with crispy hash brown potatoes, carrot and truffle. The spicy Isle of Mull cheddar accompanied by candied celery, celery sorbet and elderflower honey, is a hit. I have just enough room left to enjoy a blissful chocolate pastry filled with blackberry sorbet and decorated with a crème of local blackcurrants.

Hotspot 3: The Three Chimneys

An exceptional setting

In the mighty and lush countryside of the Isle of Skye, surrounded by hills and moors and far away from everything and everyone, lies a highly popular gem in the world of hospitality. The restaurant The Three Chimneys and its accompanying six rooms at The House Over By, overlook Loch Dunvegan and are an idyllic destination in their own right. What began as a bistro in a renovated crofters house in 1985 evolved into a haven of culinary creativity. If you wish to stay here, plan your trip at least 6 months in advance.

A remarkable experience

Again, the connection to the Isle of Skye is omnipresent. The focus on local produce and suppliers along with the unique location, gives guests a glimpse of what it feels like to live on Skye.

Welsh chef Scott Davies, who grew up in Scotland, heads the kitchen. There are two formulas for dinner. You can join eight guests at a communal table, and feast and savor a unique Chef's Choice menu of 7 courses in the bustle of the kitchen. Book early for this not-to-be-missed experience. Or you can enjoy an intimate refined meal in one of the cozy dining rooms with natural stone walls decorated with contemporary art.

The Isle of Skye on your plate

We start our meal with the sea on our plates. Succulent Loch Creran oysters are served au naturel with shallot and seaweed vinegar. Next, we feast on local Loch Dunvegan crab in an almond and ginger bisque with green apple and yogurt sauce. This is followed by local twice dived Sconser scallops. The exceptional scallop is served in a concentrated dashi. A side plate features a salad of hot smoked salmon with apple and smoked quail egg. The flavors are unique!

What is twice dived Sconser scallop?

Sconser scallop is the brand name for the king scallop which is manually harvested from the local waters of Loch Sligachan, off the hamlet of Sconser. What makes them special is that they are twice dived. During the first dive, 3- to 4-year-old shells are harvested from the sea floor and taken to shallow water. In this natural habitat with more light and warmth, the shell continues to feed on thicker plankton and grows faster. Once it has reached the proper size, the shell is manually selected and surfaced a second time.

The advantage of this method is twofold. First, the shells are harvested in a sustainable manner with no loss or waste. Second, the flesh is firmer and fuller in flavor.

We switch to land for the main course and enjoy a symphony of preparations featuring Scottish Highlands pig. There is crispy pork belly, homemade sausage, Dunvegan blood sausage, a croquette with pork ragout, a spring roll with braised pork and also a succulent piece of pork tenderloin. All this is served with kimchi, a cider-based gravy and roasted eggplant. The dish is harmonious and exquisite despite the varied and complex flavors.

Hotspot 4: Talisker Distillery

A trip through Scotland is not complete without a visit to a whisky distillery. The flagship distillery on the Isle of Skye is the Talisker Distillery built in 1830. The single malt Scotch whisky distillery is beautifully situated on Loch Harport overlooking the Cuillin Mountains. We begin our tour in an impressive visitor center where you can learn all about the history of the distillery.

Characteristics of Talisker

During the tour, our guide describes the typical characteristics of Talisker whisky as smoky, fruity and peppery.

Smoky

A smoky character is typical of Scotch Island whisky. This comes from the peat that is used in the kilns to dry the germinated barley. The oils or phenols present in the smoke stick to the outside of the barley grains and give the whisky its typical smoky flavor. The level of smokiness is indicated by the amount of ppm, phenols per million, in the barley. Low is 1 - 5 ppm, resulting in a subtle hint of smoke. Moderate peat is 5 - 15 ppm and heavy peat is 15 - 50+ ppm. Talisker works with off-site malted and dried barley from Glen Ord Maltings. The commercial maltings use a precise amount of peat to give Talisker whisky a moderate smoky character.

Fruity

The fruity character comes from the fermentation process. The malt, in which the starch was transformed into sugars, is washed and ground into grist. This is mixed with hot water so that the sugars dissolve, and then strained. The remaining liquid, or wort, is pumped into a washback. In the large, wooden fermentation tank, yeast is added to the wort. Sugars are converted into alcohol and carbon dioxide during the fermentation process, which takes about two days. Talisker opts for a long fermentation of three days to highlight the aroma of fresh, sweet fruits.

Peppery

Talisker Distillery uses two wash stills and three spirit stills with unique U-shaped lyne arms as well as five copper worm tub condensers. These unique and unusual stills and condensers contribute to the peppery character of the whisky.

Talisker favorite

After the tour it’s time for a tasting. We are introduced to the popular Talisker 10-year aged single malt Scotch whisky.  The whisky has the color of honey and a medium to full body. It is smoky and spicy and has aromas of nuts and toast on the palate. The finish is long and peppery. Next is the Talisker Port Ruighe. This peaty and salty single malt whisky is double-aged in port casks. It has aromas of cacao and spices with a long finish. The last whisky is the excellent Talisker Parley Wilder Seas. The amber colored single malt has notes of raisins, is medium to full bodied and a long finish with hints of smoke.

Hotspot 5: Portree

Portree is the largest and most picturesque fishing village on Skye and has quite a few good addresses. The pastel-colored houses in the small harbor provide a colorful backdrop for cozy coffee bars, fish and chip restaurants and gift shops.

Birch Café

At this hip, minimalist coffee bar, Niall Munro serves the best coffee on the island. Here, quality and integrity are key. You can trace every coffee back to the plantation and its grower. For example, the coffees Nestor Lasso, Chaparral Decaf and Alexander Cajiao, all come from Columbia. They are roasted in-house in small batches. I enjoy a delicious cappuccino and receive a glass of water on the side. A nice touch.

But at Birch things are not limited to delicious coffee. Heavenly homemade pastries line the counter and behind a corner hot breakfast is prepared. I'm a fan of their sticky toffee muffins and chocolate-and-caramel tarts. Didier enjoyed the crunchy Birch granola with stewed apricots and local yogurt. My best breakfast at Birch was the overnight oats with coconut, honey and cardamom. So yummy!

Birch Café also serves fresh soup daily and a light lunch.

Highland Cow Shop

At the Highland Cow Shop, you won't just find good coffee and delicious pastries. You can also buy all kinds of delicacies, cheese, salads, toppings and drinks. You'll find everything you need for a good start to the day and for a picnic while hiking in the Quiraing. It is also the ideal place to bring home a last-minute gift from the Highlands.

Ör

Speaking of gifts, Ör is a great gift shop. You'll find books, knits, ceramics and pottery, jewelry, soaps and fragrances. Everything is of excellent quality and locally made.