Experience Tenerife differently – part 2: pyramids, volcanoes and whales
Discover Tenerife's mysterious pyramids of Güímar, the breathtaking lunar landscape around El Teide and a sailing trip along the cliffs of Los Gigantes – with whales for company.
Tenerife's mystery and natural power
Tenerife is more than just sun and sea. In this second part of our journey, we explore the intriguing pyramids of Güímar, the volcanic heart of the island around El Teide, and take a sailing trip along the imposing cliffs of Los Gigantes. From archaeology to ecotourism, these day trips showcase the power and mystique of Tenerife – an island that never ceases to surprise.
The pyramids of Güímar – sun, rituals and ocean stories
Six mysterious pyramids lie on the arid south coast of Tenerife. For a long time, they were considered to be piles of stones, but thanks to the stubbornness of explorer Thor Heyerdahl, they were given a new story. In the park, you can learn about how the pyramids are aligned with the sun at the solstice, the plants that grow on the island, and Thor Heyerdahl's trips across the ocean on the Kon-Tiki and Ra II.
The pyramids have stepped sides and flat tops, and look similar to sun worship structures from Mesopotamia, Mexico and Peru. Researchers from the Canary Islands Institute of Astrophysics discovered that the main axis of the complex is lined up with the summer and winter solstices. Heyerdahl thought they were used for special ceremonies in ancient times, but local archaeologists thought they were used for farming. The truth? It remains a mystery.
The museum offers a fascinating insight into Heyerdahl's life and expeditions, with large models of his vessels and archaeological finds from Polynesia and Papua New Guinea.
Who was Thor Heyerdahl?
Thor Heyerdahl (1914–2002) was a Norwegian anthropologist, explorer and writer who became famous for his groundbreaking ocean voyages. In 1947, he sailed from Peru to Polynesia on the balsa raft Kon-Tiki to prove that prehistoric peoples could travel long distances by sea. This was followed by expeditions with reed boats such as the Ra II and the Tigris, with which he tested the seaworthiness of ancient vessels.
Heyerdahl believed in transoceanic contacts long before the arrival of European colonists. His work took him to Easter Island, the Maldives, South America and eventually Tenerife, where he worked to protect the pyramids of Güímar. His motto:
"Borders? I've never seen one, but I've heard they exist in most people's minds."
El Teide and Las Cañadas – walking on the moon
We drive to the volcanic heart of Tenerife: El Teide, the second highest mountain in Spain. The drive takes us through a landscape that becomes more and more surreal. From 1,600 metres up, we rise above the clouds and see the volcano rising against a clear blue sky. We take the western route via Chío and pass solidified lava flows covered with coniferous trees – a wonder in itself.
Unfortunately, the cable car to the La Rambleta mountain station is closed because of strong winds. We use our time differently and walk around the Las Cañadas caldera, one of the largest in the world. The landscape looks lunar: there are jagged rock formations in black, red, yellow and even green, deep gorges and lava fields that look as if they were still liquid yesterday.
We have lunch at the Parador and then walk to the Roques de García, a group of rocks shaped by wind and water over time. From the rocks, you can look out over the Llano de Ucanca plain and Los Azulejos, a rock formation with a green colouring due to the presence of iron. It is a magical place where it seems like time has stopped.
Sailing with Blue Dream – whales, cliffs and silence at sea
The next day, we go on a sailing trip with Blue Dream Sailing. We board the Sangria, an elegant sailing boat that takes small groups out onto the waters between Tenerife and La Gomera. From the port of Los Gigantes, we sail to a nature reserve with a depth of 1,000 metres – this is a hotspot for whales and dolphins.
The Canary Islands have strict rules for whale watching. There is even a label – the Blue Boat label – which indicates that the company offers responsible sea safaris. These safaris respect the animals and the rules for whale watching in the waters around the Canary Islands. Blue Dream Sailing is one of these companies, and you can tell by their respectful and professional approach.
We are lucky: we spot several pilot whales, a species of dolphin that belongs to the cetacean family. They are black, up to six metres long and have a spherical head – a bit like a miniature orca whale. Pilot whales live in large groups and are particularly social. We see a mother with her calf, surrounded by other pilot whales protecting them.
In the waters around the Canary Islands, pilot whales feed on giant squids that live at a depth of 1,000 metres and can grow to a length of 10 to 13 metres. The way they hunt is spectacular: they dive down at lightning speed, partially suck up their prey and then come up rapidly. The pressure difference can cause the squid's head to explode. But it's not easy to catch a giant squid. They put up a fierce fight, which often leaves scars on the pilot whale's skin.
We sail back past the impressive cliffs of Los Gigantes, which rise up to 450 metres out of the ocean. The clear water looks so inviting that we can't resist taking a dip. After eating some delicious tapas and a drink, we return to the harbour feeling content.
