Experience Tenerife differently – part 3: mountains, villages and traditions
Explore the remote Teno Mountains, the picturesque village of Masca and the colonial town of La Orotava. Discover volcanic landscapes, aristocratic houses, gofio mills and centuries-old crafts on Tenerife's north coast.
Where nature and tradition meet
In this third and final part of our journey along Tenerife's north coast, we go inland. We explore the rugged Teno Mountains, walk through the mountain village of Masca and finish in La Orotava, a town full of colonial splendour and craft traditions. From deep ravines to fine embroidery, this day shows the true character of Tenerife – shaped by nature, history and generations of craftsmanship.
The Teno Mountains – wild, remote and breathtaking
We start our day with a drive through the Teno Massif, a spectacular mountain range in the northwest of Tenerife. The landscape is wild and untouched, with deep valleys, sharp rocks and villages perched on the mountains. This part used to be separate from the rest of Tenerife, but then it was joined to the mainland by volcanic eruptions.
The roads wind through the mountain range, offering stunning views of the ocean and the neighbouring island of La Gomera. There are no mass tourist crowds here, and you can still feel the peace and authenticity of the surroundings.
Masca – a village among the clouds
The drive to Masca is an adventure. The road winds along steep slopes and deep gorges, so it requires some driving skills. Masca is spread across the mountain slopes and ends in the spectacular Masca Gorge, which you can descend to the ocean – but only if you are in good physical condition.
The village itself is very peaceful, especially when the tourist buses have left. We walk through steep alleys, smell the delicious aroma of local food and enjoy the view. For a great view of the village and the terraces around it, visit the Mirador de Cruz de Hilda, where you can also enjoy a snack and a drink on the sun-drenched terrace.
Buenavista del Norte – bananas and tranquillity on the coast
We continue towards Buenavista del Norte, where the landscape becomes less steep and flows into a subtropical coastal area. Here, banana plantations are everywhere you look. Apart from a hotel with a golf course, there is not much tourism – a break from the busy atmosphere of the south.
We pass through Garachico again (see part 1) and head towards our final destination: La Orotava.
La Orotava – colonial grandeur and traditional craftsmanship
You should definitely visit the town of La Orotava. The old wooden houses, pretty churches and grand palaces make it a protected cultural heritage site of the EU. If you only visit one place, make it the Casas de los Balcones, which is on Calle San Francisco.
We visit the Casa Mendez Fonseca, a famous 17th-century house with beautiful wooden and wrought-iron balconies. The interior is like something out of a time capsule, with the original furniture, delicate porcelain, a bread oven, cast-iron stove and terracotta jugs. In the kitchen there's a volcanic rock water distiller, which is a clever system that makes drinking water naturally clean.
Canarian lace – tradition in every stitch
From the courtyard of Casa Mendez Fonseca, you can access a gift shop with a separate section dedicated to Canarian threadwork. This traditional technique is unique to the islands, and each thread is woven into a fixed pattern. The Casas de los Balcones Federation is committed to keeping this tradition alive. It is a tribute to the patience and precision of generations of women.
The gofio mills of La Orotava – grain, water and history
Would you like to know everything about gofio, the flour made from roasted grain or corn that has been the staple food of the Canary Islands since the time of the Guanches? Then visit the Casa Lercaro and the Molino del Hoyo.
At the start of the 19th century, there were 13 water mills in operation in La Orotava. They used the river to grind grain and belonged to the local elite. Today, two mills are still working, but they use electricity instead of water as a power source. The Molino del Hoyo has been completely restored and still functions perfectly. It is a living monument to agricultural tradition.
The sand carpet – art with volcanic sand
In one of the rooms next to the mill, we admire a sand carpet made with coloured sand from the Teide volcano. This tradition originated in the 19th century and is continued every year during Corpus Christi (Sacrament Day). On this day, the square in front of the town hall is covered with a carpet of sand and flowers, all of which come from the Teide National Park.
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Concepción – Baroque with a colonial twist
We end our trip by visiting the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Concepción, whose origins date back to 1515. Its current form dates from the 18th century. The outside of the building looks very colonial, but inside it is a Baroque masterpiece. The visit is a perfect way to end a day full of beauty and tradition.
This third part is the last in our trip along Tenerife's north coast. From volcanic landscapes to colonial splendour, from whales to lacework, Tenerife has surprised, moved and inspired us.
