Le Train Bleu and Michel Rostang
As you step into the Gare de Lyon, nothing suggests that in the heart of the busy train station, on the first floor, lies a jewel of the Belle Epoque. None other than star chef Michel Rostang adapted the signature recipes of this gastronomic monument of Paris.
Le Buffet de la Gare de Lyon
In honor of the 1900 World Fair, the Compagnie des Chemins de Fer Paris-Lyon-Méditerranée, or PLM for short, built a gourmet stop in a luxurious setting on its famous route to southern France. Very quickly, the restaurant, named le Buffet de la Gare de Lyon, became a favorite of the beau monde and well-known artists. Jean Cocteau, Coco Chanel, Salvador Dalí, Francis Bacon and Jean Gabin all contributed to the fame and glory of the railroad restaurant.
The interior
The PLM had an architectural landmark in mind. The restaurant was to be an impressive example of the fine art of the Belle Epoque. The result is breathtaking. Paintings, gilding, moldings, immense crystal chandeliers and frescoes adorn the 8-meter-high walls and ceilings. The works were executed by some of the greatest artists of the period. In 1972, the two main halls were listed as historic monuments.
Le Train Bleu
In 1963, the restaurant's name was changed to Le Train Bleu, named after the historic, blue night train on the Paris-Côte d'Azur line.
The glory and demise of the night train Le Train Bleu
The Compagnie des Wagons-Lits launched the Train Bleu in 1868 in an effort to attract more tourists to the Mediterranean and in response to the Orient Express. Passengers enjoyed every possible luxury on the night train: private sleeping quarters, beds with fine sheets and soft mattresses, a dining carriage and bar with impeccable service and fine cuisine.
Celebrities such as Marlene Dietrich, Grace Kelly and Coco Chanel regularly used the train. In Agatha Christie's detective novel, The Blue Train, Hercule Poirot makes the journey from Paris to Nice on the blue night train that is also the lieu de crime of the story.
From 1976, with the democratization of aviation and later with the rise of high-speed trains, the Train Bleu went into decline. The line was even suspended for a short time.
The collaboration with Michel Rostang
The quality of Le Train Bleu restaurant went steadily downhill with time. The renovation of the dining rooms in 2014 could not stop the negative criticism.
In 2018, everything changed. The group SSP, leading operator of bars and restaurants in travel locations around the world, seeks the help of celebrity chef Michel Rostang. The chef transforms the menu into a fine list of high-end dishes that change with the seasons. The cuisine remains classic but with an emphasis on the regional dishes of the PLM line Paris, Lyon, Marseille. Rostang also brings his love of fine-tasting sauces to the menu. Rich broths and fine jus are at the center of the balanced and delicious dishes. Some all-time classics are prepared or carved at the table, according to the traditional rules of serving.
What do we eat at Le Train Bleu restaurant?
Didier opts for succulent, roasted langoustines served on a fine layer of pureed zucchini with lemon thyme and topped with a reduced bisque. I can't resist the octopus with lime, cream of corn, piquillo peppers and cilantro. The dish contains all the ingredients of the classic Peruvian ceviche. Both entrees are bursting with flavor and are fresh and balanced.
Next, we order the turbot, grilled whole and served with mashed potatoes. With it comes a warm sauce of chopped black olives, dried tomato, pine nuts and candied lemon peel. This is a clear nod to the Marseille stop on the line of the historic Train Bleu. The waiter presents us with the grilled turbot at the table and then fillets the fish with knowledge and perfection. The fish is juicy and flavorful, the potato puree velvety and creamy. I completely empty my plate without shame.
We sadly had no space left for dessert, although the nage of red summer fruit with fresh mint seemed tempting to me.