Uncover Rome’s Secrets Around Piazza Navona
Explore the hidden gems near Piazza Navona in Rome: Campo de’ Fiori, Palazzo Farnese, Sant’Agnese in Agone, and Palazzo Altemps. A personal guide to history, art, and authentic experiences beyond the tourist crowds.
Rediscovering Rome: culture, food and history
Twenty years after our last visit, we returned to Rome, a city that has changed a lot in the meantime – it's busier and livelier, but still just as fascinating. You immediately notice how strongly culture, food and history are intertwined. In Rome, a plate of pasta reveals as much about the city as a fresco in a church or a statue in a piazza.
In this blog series, I'm going to take you on a stroll through Rome – past places that have stayed with us and dishes that I still dream about. This is not a tourist checklist, but a selection of personal experiences and adventures in the ancient city. We start near Piazza Navona, where you can still find hidden gems behind the hustle and bustle: quiet museums, forgotten churches and squares with a story to tell.
Campo de' Fiori: a square transformed.
It is one of the most famous squares in Rome, mainly due to its daily market and the cosy cafés and taverns that surround it. However, anyone who visited twenty years ago would immediately notice that the atmosphere has changed. Today, many of the stalls are run by non-Italians, with a greater focus on tourist products than local specialities. While the market remains lively, it has lost some of its former authenticity.
Nevertheless, Campo de' Fiori remains an interesting place to start exploring. The square has a painful history: heretics were executed here in the past. The statue of Giordano Bruno in the centre commemorates his execution in 1600 for proclaiming ideas contrary to the Church's teachings.
While Campo de' Fiori is not a hidden gem in the classic sense, it demonstrates how Rome is evolving — from a local market to a tourist hotspot with a blend of conviviality and impersonal hustle and bustle.
Sant’Andrea della Valle: an impressive church.
Located within walking distance of Piazza Navona, Sant’Andrea della Valle is a church that is easy to walk past, but well worth a visit. While the façade is impressive, it is the dome that really stands out, being one of the most beautiful in Rome. Inside, you will find impressive frescoes and a lavishly decorated interior. As it is less crowded than other well-known churches, it is pleasant to look around in peace.
Palazzo Farnese: renaissance power.
Palazzo Farnese is an impressive Renaissance palace that now serves as the French Embassy. Visits are by appointment only, which makes it somewhat inaccessible to the average visitor. Nevertheless, it is worth taking a moment to admire the façade and consider the building's history. Built in the 16th century, the palace is a testament to the power and influence of the Farnese family during that period.
Sant’Agnese in Agone: faith and architecture
In the centre of Piazza Navona stands the Baroque church of Sant’Agnese in Agone, with a striking façade designed by Borromini.
Inside, you can visit the crypt dedicated to Saint Agnes, a young woman who was martyred in the fourth century after being accused of witchcraft. According to tradition, her hair suddenly grew long enough to cover her nakedness when she was taken away by two Roman soldiers.
The crypt contains beautiful frescoes and a high relief depicting her story. It is a place that is interesting both architecturally and because of its religious history.
Piazza Navona: baroque beauty on Roman roots
Piazza Navona is one of Rome's most beautiful and famous Baroque squares. However, it is worth taking a moment to consider its history. It is located on the site of the Stadium of Domitian, which was built in the Campus Martius (Field of Mars) during the Roman era. The current square's elongated shape still betrays its origins. The buildings you see today are built on top of the stadium's old stands – a fascinating detail that only becomes apparent once you know it.
After the fall of the Roman Empire, the stadium became a market square. In the 16th and 17th centuries, Piazza Navona acquired its Baroque appearance, complete with three imposing fountains, stately mansions, and churches, all of which were commissioned by the popes of the time. Today, it is a vibrant place filled with terraces and street performers, but if you look closely, you can still perceive the layers of history that come together here.
Palazzo Altemps: art in silence
Often overlooked, Palazzo Altemps is a museum that offers an oasis of calm in the busy city centre. This large palace houses an impressive collection of classical sculptures from Roman times, including pieces from Cardinal Ludovisi's collection. In the 17th century, a great deal of work went into restoring these ancient sculptures, a practice that was not particularly popular with purists. The result, however, is a beautiful blend of antique and Baroque art.
The rooms contain beautiful frescoes and painted ceilings, and the loggia evokes the atmosphere of a garden. If you're looking for a place to enjoy art without the crowds, this is the ideal spot.
Rome, twenty years later – a personal reflection
The thing that struck us most during this trip was how much Rome has changed. Twenty years ago, it was much quieter here. Today, there are hardly any moments of silence in some places. Yet Rome remains a fascinating city – precisely because it has so many facets. By choosing lesser-known places, you can discover a different side to Rome: one that is still vibrant, but where you can also sense the soul of the city.
Want to discover more of Rome? Read the next part of our walk through Rome: Classics rediscovered – from the Pantheon to Piazza Venezia – and learn how these monuments reveal more than meets the eye.