Along the southern Adriatic coast of Puglia – sea views, narrow streets and amazing flavours

A stay among centuries-old olive trees 

We based ourselves at Masseria Calderisi, a beautiful masseria just outside Fasano, for this leg of the trip. As soon as you drive up the driveway, you'll see an impressive olive grove with trees that have been standing strong in the Puglia sun for centuries. The vibe is chilled, the decor's classy and cosy – the ideal combination of country-chic and modern comforts.

The masseria's cuisine is all about simple, quality ingredients. There's fresh fish every day, cooked all kinds of ways: grilled, roasted with chips, olives and tomatoes, or as an irresistible frittura mista – crispy, light and full of flavour. You get great value for money, and the service is warm and genuine. It's a place where you immediately feel at home.

Polignano a Mare – where the sea sings 

Polignano a Mare is a gem on the cliffs of the Adriatic coast. The deep blue sea crashes against the rocks below the town, which stretches like a white ribbon above the water. Take a stroll through the alleys and squares and be surprised by glimpses of the sea, hidden stairways and balconies full of flowers.

The town is visually charming, and it's also famous for its music. It was here that singer Domenico Modugno, who is well-known for his iconic song Volare, was born. His statue looks out over the sea, as if he were still singing to the horizon.

Monopoli – fishing port and amazing food 

Monopoli is a hit with both locals and tourists. The old fishing port is the beating heart of the town, with white houses, green shutters and a maze of alleys, and a relaxed atmosphere. Here you can taste the best of Puglia – fresh, pure and prepared with love.

We found three great places to eat, each with its own story:

Radimare – a celebration of the sea

An elegant restaurant where the sea is on your plate. The dishes are refined, surprising and perfectly balanced.

• Seriole carpaccio with a green sauce of dill, basil and mint – fresh and aromatic.
• Roasted seppie with artichoke and lemon jus in dollops – a dish that will leave you speechless.
• Turbot with beurre blanc and green asparagus – classic with a twist.
• Suckling pig with crispy skin and seasonal vegetables – rich and comforting.
• Lime, rose and bergamot sorbet – a fragrant finale.
• Etna Rosso Graci – an elegant wine made from Nerello Mascalese, comparable to a good Pinot Noir.

Fare la scarpetta – mopping up the sauce with a piece of bread – is not a shame here, but a must.

MyWine – bistro with character 

A less touristy gem offering excellent value for money and creative cuisine.

• Cream of fava beans with raw marinated prawns in olive oil and sweet and sour onion.
• Carpaccio of red prawn with yoghurt cream and dried caviar.
• Slow cooked sea bass, served with fennel purée and cardamom.

The vibe is warm, the service is friendly, and the dishes show off some great craftsmanship and bold flavours.

Cucunci – new at the harbour 

On our last day, we had lunch at Cucunci, a newly opened restaurant in the old fishing harbour. The name refers to the fruit of the caper plant – cucunci in the local dialect.

• Crudo of the day – it doesn't get any fresher than this.
• Tagliolini with vongole and samphire – salty flavours in perfect harmony.
• Risotto with seafood – creamy, rich and full of character.
• Coffee with amarena cherry biscuits – a sweet ending.

The place has really classy decor, a great view of the harbour and the food is really tasty. I'm sure it will go from strength to strength.