Bologna in one day: discover la dotta, la grassa, la rossa
Discover Bologna in one day: from Piazza Maggiore and the Due Torri to the Archiginnasio and the iconic arcades. A city full of history, culture and flavour.
A brief encounter with a city full of character
Bologna – the clever, the fat, the red. Three nicknames that perfectly sum up what makes this city so special: knowledge, flavour and the sea of red roofs. I only had one day for my visit, but that was enough to get a first impression. As you walk under the arcades, you pass cafés, churches and trattorias. In the distance, you can see the towers, and the sound of the piazza buzzing reminds you of the past. Bologna is a university city, a place with great food and somewhere you could easily spend a day (or even a lifetime). Fancy joining me for a walk?
La dotta, la grassa, la rossa – the three faces of Bologna
La dotta – the clever one
Bologna is proud of its Alma Mater Studiorum, the oldest university in the Western world, founded in 1088. At a time when education was mainly controlled by the Church, a free and independent model of teaching emerged here. Students came from far and wide and organised themselves into nationes – groups based on where they were from and what language they spoke.
The university started as a law school, but in the 14th century it grew to include subjects like logic, astronomy, medicine and philosophy. Over the centuries, famous people like Dante, Petrarch and Copernicus studied here.
La grassa – the fat one
Bologna is a paradise for foodies. Its nickname, la grassa, refers to the rich gastronomy that takes centre stage here – abundance yes, but no excesses. For centuries, students and professors have brought their own culinary traditions with them, creating a cuisine full of character.
But the Emilia-Romagna region has been known since ancient times for its fertile agricultural land. The fertile soil meant that the food industry could thrive, with Bologna as its centre. Here, everything is about quality: from handmade pasta to local cheeses, from fresh vegetables to high-quality meat.
Think tagliatelle al ragù (not to be confused with spaghetti bolognese!), tortellini in brodo and the famous mortadella. You will find trattorias everywhere where good food, tradition and quality are all combined.
La rossa – the red one
Climb the Torre degli Asinelli and you will immediately understand why Bologna is called la rossa: a sea of red roofs stretches out before you. The colour comes from the bricks that have been used since the fall of the Roman Empire. But red also refers to the political history and the powerful, fast cars of Ferrari, Ducati and Lamborghini, which all come from the same region: Emilia-Romagna.
The must-sees in the heart of Bologna
1. The arcades – UNESCO World Heritage Site
My walk started under the famous portici, the arcades that make Bologna world-famous. They stretch for 40 kilometres and are recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. These arches protect you from the sun and rain and tell the stories of all the people who have walked here on its polished floors.
The first arcades appeared in the 11th century. They were built in wood to support balconies. Later, in the 13th century, the wooden strucuters were replaced by brick buildings. Students then came to Bologna to study, and these balconies were converted into rooms. Today, you will find cafés, restaurants, churches and even museums – all under those elegant arches.
2. Piazza Maggiore – the beating heart
Every city has a place where everything comes together – in Bologna, that is undoubtedly Piazza Maggiore. This square is not only the geographical centre, but also the historical heart of the city.
Some of Bologna's most important monuments are located on the square. The Basilica di San Petronio is an impressive sight, especially when you first see its unfinished façade. But the other buildings also tell their own story: the Palazzo dei Notai, the Palazzo d'Accursio, the Palazzo dei Banchi and the oldest of them all, the Palazzo del Podestà from 1200, which is on the north side of the square and is crowned by the Torre dell'Arengo.
In the middle of the square is il crescentone, a raised platform that is popular with locals. Here they sit, talk and eat. It is a place where the city comes alive – and where visitors can enjoy the daily rhythm for a while.
3. Basilica di San Petronio
This church is enormous: 132 metres long, 60 metres high and 45 metres wide. Construction began in 1390 to honour San Petronio, the patron saint of Bologna. The original plan was to build a church that would be even bigger than St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. But the religious authorities did not agree with this.
Even now, the basilica is not finished. The front of the building hasn't changed since the 17th century, and the side wings were never finished. Even so, the interior is amazing. Inside, ythere are 22 chapels, each with its own style. The Cappella dei Magi is special, with 15th-century frescoes by Giovanni da Modena. Napoleon's relatives are buried in the Cappella di San Giacomo, and the Cappella dei Reliquari has valuable relics.
What caught my eye was Cassini's sundial, which runs along the middle of the nave. And then there is the organ – one of the oldest in the world – which is still played today.
4. Piazza del Nettuno – Neptune and Maserati
Next to Piazza Maggiore is Piazza del Nettuno, where you'll find Giambologna's famous Neptune fountain. The square is a great place to stop and enjoy the amazing architecture of Bologna.
Fun fact: Maserati used Neptune's trident as its logo.
5. Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio – the soul of la dotta
Not far from Piazza Maggiore is the Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio, a building that represents the intellectual spirit of Bologna. It was built in 1563 to bring all the university's departments under one roof and make things more organised. At the time, the university had been around for centuries. Until 1803, it was the main building of the oldest university in the Western world, the Alma Mater Studiorum.
What makes this university so special is that it was founded in 1088 by students themselves as a free and independent model. Students came together into groups based on where they were from and their language. They worked together to decide how education would be organised. It started with law, but in the 14th century expanded to include logic, astronomy, medicine, philosophy and theology.
At the Archiginnasio, you can experience history for yourself. The corridors are lined with more than 6,000 coats of arms of students and professors who once studied or taught here. As I walked through the building, it seemed as if the discussions between students and professors still echoed in the corridors.
Today, the palace is a library, and not just any library: it has one of the largest collections of books and manuscripts in Italy. Even if you don't have time to stay long, a short walk through the halls and galleries is enough to understand why Bologna is called la dotta.
6. Due Torri – Asinelli and Garisenda
You can't miss them: Bologna's two leaning towers, Asinelli and Garisenda, have been a feature of the city's skyline since the 12th century. They are named after the families who had them built, and although they were once part of a larger network of towers – Bologna had more than a hundred in the Middle Ages – these two are the best known.
The Torre Garisenda was built first, around 1109. It is 48 metres high today, but it was originally much taller. Because the foundations had settled, it had to be made shorter. Since then, it has been known as the Truncated Tower. It is leaning quite a lot, at a 4° angle.
A few years later, construction began on the Torre degli Asinelli, which at 97 metres is still the tallest medieval tower in Italy. This tower also leans slightly but not as much: 2.23 metres to the west. The climb to the top of the tower is tough, with 498 steps, but the view of the red roofs of Bologna is more than worth it.
I liked that there's a legend about the towers, along with the historical facts. The story goes that a poor farmer found a chest full of gold, all thanks to his two donkeys. When his son fell in love with a rich young woman, her father demanded that he build a tower as proof of his love. Ten years later, the tower was finished, and the wedding could take place. The tower was named after the donkeys, the asinelli, who had found the treasure.
Is it true? Maybe not. But it does make these towers stand out a bit more.