The long road to Alaska, a story of letting go and discovering - from Toronto to Banff
An RV, a family, and a seven-week dream through the wilderness of Alaska.
A personal travel story about leaving Toronto, first impressions of Alberta, and the start of a seven-week road trip through Alaska with the family. From fondue in Banff to bears along the Icefields Parkway.
A journey as a rite of passage
After ten years of expat life – the last two of which were in Canada – we decided to return to Belgium. My husband said goodbye to the corporate world, we sold our house in Oakville, Ontario, and filled a shipping container with everything we owned. While our belongings sailed to Europe, we decided to fulfil a dream that had been in our hearts for twenty years: a trip to Alaska.
It wasn't a holiday, but a rite of passage. A search for peace, for meaning, for connection with each other and with nature. It was the summer of 2006, and the trip would change our lives. What we did then – letting go, travelling, enjoying ourselves – is perhaps even more relevant today than ever. More people are choosing to leave everything behind for a while and go in search of meaningful experiences.
The departure – farewell and adventure
After spending one last evening with friends in Toronto, we set off on a seven-week family trip through Alaska. The RV was waiting for us in Calgary, our suitcases were packed, and emotions were running high. What began as a leap into the unknown quickly became an adventure that brought us closer together – and closer to nature.
A flight full of symbolism
After a short night, we flew to Calgary the following morning. The crew were funny and the atmosphere was relaxed. While Didier struck up a stimulating conversation with someone sitting next to him, I tried to catch up on some sleep. Our daughter Gaïa, who was fourteen at the time, was not entirely on board with the idea of this trip. Moving to Belgium had meant leaving her friends behind, which weighed heavily on her. But she slowly began to come round to the decision.
The RV: large, intimidating, and our new home
When we arrived, All-Drive Canada picked us up. At first, the RV seemed enormous, but Didier stepped in confidently, which gave me courage. The mountain bikes were adjusted to fit us, although they would later cause us some frustration. Our first stop was Safeway, where we stocked up on provisions for the first few days. Our first destination was Banff National Park. After settling into one of the campsites, we realised that we were really gone.
Banff National Park – the starting point of the road trip
Fondue with caribou and a view to take your breath away
In Banff, we took the shuttle bus into town, where we enjoyed fondue and pierrade with caribou, elk and bison. The bill was ridiculously expensive, but the atmosphere was priceless. Didier, who is usually keen to take photos, hadn't taken one yet – a sign that the stress of the past few weeks was still lingering.
Johnston Canyon and our first encounter with a moose
The next morning, we drove to Johnston Canyon. We had to skip a hike through the canyon three years earlier because there were just too many people. This time, however, it was quiet, and we soon saw a majestic elk along the road. With a sense of childlike excitement, I quickly took out my new Nikon camera, although the lighting conditions were less than ideal. We continued to enjoy the walk and the magnificent waterfall, which is one of the highest in Canada.
A nest of ospreys above the valley
On the old road between Banff and Lake Louise, we stopped at a viewpoint. It overlooked a small valley through which the railway line wound. Perched on top of an electricity pylon was a large osprey nest. Didier took out his 400 mm lens and converter and managed to get a close-up of the nest, which contained two chicks and what appeared to be a third, lifeless hatchling on the edge. The father osprey was sitting further away, high up in a pine tree. It was an impressive scene, and the photos turned out beautifully!
Lake Louise and the first bears
On day three, we drove to Lake Louise, where the water was a stunning shade of blue due to the glacial silt. The sight of the surrounding mountains reflected in the lake was breathtaking.
We strolled around the lakeshore and eventually made it to the other side. There we started the trail to Six Glacier Valley.
It's a moderately steep 3.5 km climb that brings you closer to the glaciers. At the same time, you can smell the sweet scent of fragrant shrubs. Later that day, on the Icefields Parkway, we saw a black bear along the road. This 230 km stretch cuts through the Rockies at around 1,500 m high, with mountain peaks ranging from 3,000 to 3,500 m all around it.
We carried on to the Athabasca Glacier. We were here three years ago, and it was obvious that the glacier had retreated further. It was windy and cold, and we were almost alone. The best sighting was at sunset, when we saw two young bears playing right next to our RV. They rolled through the grass, stood on their back legs and got so close that I had to close the window.
A promising start
The first few days of our trip were intense and emotional, and filled with wonder. Alberta eased us gently into the adventure that lay ahead. The encounters with nature and the little moments formed the beginning of a journey that would change us.
