Aigues-Mortes – where medieval walls, pink salt fields and Camargue flavours meet

Within the perfectly preserved medieval walls, it seems as if time behaves differently. As you walk along the narrow streets, you can still hear the echoes of centuries past. Here, you can literally walk in the footsteps of Saint Louis, who set off on his crusades from this very spot.

Staying within the walls: Hotel des Remparts 

Staying at the Hotel des Remparts, which is located opposite the impressive Tour de Constance, was an experience in itself. The building – once a barracks, gendarmerie and even a prison – was transformed by Cécile and Stéphane into an oasis of tranquillity and understated luxury.

The salons are filled with soft light, the stone vaults tell their own story, and on the terrace, you automatically slow down to the rhythm of the Camargue. The interior is elegant and timeless, with wallpaper that subtly nods to Provence. This is a place where you immediately feel at home.

Exploring the historic centre

After a peaceful night's sleep, we set off to explore. Place Saint-Louis is at the heart of Aigues-Mortes. In the middle of the square stands a statue of King Louis IX, who embarked on the Seventh and Eighth Crusades from here. The Gothic Notre-Dame des Sablons, built in the 12th century and recently beautifully restored, overlooks the square. The square itself is the perfect place to pause for a moment and enjoy a drink in the shade of the plane trees. Or, like us, you could grab a table at Toro Luna, the only restaurant where you can sample authentic taureau de Camargue.

There are also two remarkable chapels nearby, each with its own story. The 17th-century Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs is a Baroque gem. Founded around 1400, the Chapelle des Pénitents Gris is one of the oldest chapels in the Camargue. It stands on the site of an old monastery belonging to the Cordeliers monks, which Saint Louis granted to them in 1248. The Cordeliers founded the Confrérie des Pénitents Gris, a religious brotherhood dedicated to charity and prayer.

A brief history of Aigues-Mortes

Aigues-Mortes was founded in 1240 by Louis IX as a gateway to the Mediterranean Sea. Thanks to the construction of a harbour and canals, it became a strategic location for trade in silk and spices – such as pepper, ginger, cloves and saffron – which found their way to the rest of Europe via merchants from Venice and Genoa.

By the end of the 13th century, Aigues-Mortes was the only French town with access to the sea. It was a crossroads of cultures, trade and power.

The Crusades in a nutshell 

The Crusades were armed pilgrimages endorsed by the Pope and initially intended to defend the Holy Land. However, they gradually evolved into broader conquests, often accomplished by sea. Saint Louis led the last two Crusades, both of which were military failures, and he ultimately died of the plague in Tunis.

The Tour de Constance: silent witness to a difficult period

We begin our walk on the city walls at the Tour de Constance, a good starting point because from here you immediately have a beautiful view over the rooftops of Aigues-Mortes and the vast pink salt pans in the distance. The colour of the water, which is a soft, almost pastel pink, changes constantly with the light and forms a unique contrast with the sand-coloured city walls.

The tower and its history 

The Tour de Constance was originally built in the 13th century as a defensive tower and lighthouse. However, it soon took on a darker role in history. During the period of tension between Catholics and Protestants, which was particularly fierce in the Languedoc region, the tower was converted into a prison. After the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, Protestants faced severe persecution in terms of both their religious practices and their freedom of movement. In this region, this led to the so-called 'War of the Camisards', in which resistance and repression followed each other in quick succession.

From 1686 onwards, Protestants were imprisoned in the tower, often without trial, simply for refusing to convert. The most famous prisoner was Marie Durand, who spent an astonishing 38 years here. She became the figurehead of the resistance against Catholic pressure. In her famous letters, she describes the terrible conditions she endured and her struggle for freedom. They bear witness to cold, damp conditions, disease and abuse. Her name has become a symbol of collective suffering and a total lack of perspective. In the end, there were about 200 women imprisoned in the tower. But most of them, like Marie Durand, refused to renounce their faith.

A panoramic view that unites everything 

From the tower, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the Canal du Rhône à Sète, an important waterway that has connected the city to trade and transport routes for centuries. You can also see the entire ramparts, the marina, the sparkling salt lakes (Les Salins) and the Camargue landscape stretching out before you. This is a place where history, nature and life stories blend in a single panorama.

The pink salt flats of the Camargue

The salt flats around Aigues-Mortes are among the most impressive landscapes in the Camargue, with a history dating back to the Middle Ages. Thanks to the shallow lagoons, saltwater, sunshine and wind, the area was ideal for salt production. From the town's very foundation, salt has played a crucial role in the local economy and Aigues-Mortes' strategic position.

Today, the salt pans cover around 8,000 hectares. The pink water visible from the city walls is a spectacular natural phenomenon. The colour comes from microscopic algae and bacteria that thrive in the salty environment. As the salt content increases during the evaporation process, the pink hue becomes more intense. This unique landscape attracts visitors and flamingos alike, with the birds feeding on the same organisms that colour the water and, in turn, give their feathers a pink hue.

Salt – a source of income for the French crown 

Throughout the centuries, salt was a valuable commodity and a source of power and conflict. In the 14th century, King Philip VI introduced the gabelle, a tax on salt, which remained in place until 1790. This led to smuggling and social tensions. Watchtowers and forts were built around the city to protect salt production from intruders and smuggling.

Fleur de sel – unique and indispensable in the kitchen

Today, salt is still harvested here, including the famous fleur de sel de Camargue. The formation of these delicate crystals on the water's surface is the result of the perfect combination of sun, heat and wind. They are harvested by hand, usually in the early morning, to preserve their light texture.

Fleur de sel is not used for cooking. It is best known as a finishing salt for dishes, adding a subtle crunch and a refined saltiness to fish, meat, vegetables or salads.

Flavours of the Camargue

The Camargue's culinary identity is shaped by fishing, hunting, farming and survival in a rugged landscape. What are the typical products? Fish, rice, salt and bull meat.

At Toro Luna, we enjoyed an impressive Côte à l'os of Camargue bull, which was perfectly roasted and served with three sauces, roasted vegetables and chips. The meat is selected and ordered a year in advance, a tradition of which the restaurateur is clearly proud.

To finish, we were served a glass of liqueur des gardians, made with over twenty Mediterranean herbs and spices, including thyme, aniseed, savoury, oregano and coriander. This digestive is a tribute to the lifestyle of the 'gardians', the traditional cattle herders or cowboys of the Camargue.

Why Aigues-Mortes stays with you

Aigues-Mortes combines history, heritage and local traditions in a clear and accessible way. The town is small and easy to get around, which is great for those who like to learn as they go. The mix of medieval architecture, tasty food and visible traces of the past means that a short stop can easily turn into a proper travel experience.