Spaghetti alla Carbonara – The Authentic Roman Classic
Learn the history and secrets of spaghetti alla carbonara, the iconic Roman pasta made with guanciale, pecorino, eggs, and black pepper. No cream, no shortcuts – just the authentic recipe and expert tips.
From cacio e pepe to carbonara
After mastering cacio e pepe, it’s time for the next chapter in Rome’s pasta trilogy: spaghetti alla carbonara. This dish may look simple, but behind its silky sauce lies a fascinating story. Carbonara is a global star these days, yet it originated in the post-war 1950s, when Italy was still recovering from the devastation of World War II.
Like cacio e pepe, carbonara is all about simplicity and quality. But here, two extra elements transform the dish: eggs and guanciale. Along with pecorino and black pepper, these ingredients come together to create a rich, velvety sauce – no cream, no bacon bits!
A dish with a mysterious past
The origins of carbonara are up for debate. Some trace it back to Naples in the 18th century, when pasta with egg and cheese first appeared. Others suggest it is linked to gricia, a Roman pasta dish dating back to the 16th century with pecorino, pepper and guanciale – but no egg.
Then there are the romantic theories: that the name comes from the Carbonari, a secret political movement, or that black pepper resembles pieces of charcoal. What is the most likely explanation? During the Second World War, American soldiers brought their rations – bacon and eggs – with them, which subsequently found their way onto the black market, or mercato carbonero in Italian. Combined with Italian pasta and pecorino, this fusion won over the hearts of the Romans and the rest of the world.
Guanciale – the soul of carbonara
Guanciale is not ordinary bacon. It is salted pork cheek, generously seasoned with pepper, thyme, sage and sometimes garlic and chilli pepper. It is then matured for three months. Its fat melts slowly, releasing a deep, full flavour that pancetta simply can't match. Cook guanciale over high heat until golden and crisp, but not too long – otherwise you will lose that precious fat that makes the sauce so creamy.
Roscioli – Where Carbonara Becomes Art
The recipe I'm sharing here is from Roscioli, one of Rome's most iconic delis and restaurants. Chef Nabil Hadj Hassen made one of the best carbonara’s ever at Gambero Rosso's 'Carbonara Day' in 2008. He chose spaghettoni from Benedetto Cavalieri, bronze-cut for a rough texture that perfectly holds the sauce. His secret? A blend of Sichuan, Malaysian and Indian peppers, with a perfect emulsion of eggs, cheese and guanciale fat. This carbonara is the best of the best – a dish that combines tradition and finesse.
Golden rules for perfect carbonara
- No cream, no garlic, no onion, no bacon bits – just eggs, pecorino cheese, guanciale and black pepper.
- Use long, dry pasta: spaghetti, spaghettoni, or bucatini.
- Choose traditionally made pasta: it stays firm after cooking.
- Work quickly and with even heat.
- The magic happens in one delicate minute: eggs, cheese, fat, and cooking liquid emulsify into a luscious coating. Too slow? The eggs will curdle. Too fast? The sauce stays thin. This is the secret to a good carbonara.
The recipe by Roscioli (chef Nabil Hadj Hassen)
Ingredients for 4 people:
- 360 g spaghettoni (preferably Benedetto Cavalieri, bronze-cut)
- 240 g guanciale
- 1 whole egg + 3 yolks
- 210 g pecorino Romano
- 40 g parmesan (optional)
- 20 g black pepper (blend of Tellicherry, Malabar, possibly Sichuan for extra aroma)
- Coarse sea salt
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Step 1: Prepare the guanciale
Trim the guanciale by removing the rind and any excess pepper. Cut it into ½ cm thick slices, then into 1 cm cubes. Fry the guanciale in a pan over high heat. Wait until the fat begins to melt and one side turns golden brown. Stir and continue to fry until all the fat has melted. Lower the heat and allow the cubes to caramelise gently for a further 15 minutes. Reserve with its rendered fat and keep warm.
![Spaghetti Carbonara 1]()
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Step 2: Cheese and egg mixture
Grate the pecorino (and parmesan, if using) using a standard grater to produce fine flakes, not curls. Beat the eggs and egg yolks together in a plastic bowl, as this insulates heat better. Add a handful of the grated cheese and freshly ground pepper. Mix until smooth and creamy.
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Step 3: Cook the pasta.
Cook the spaghettoni in a large pan of salted water for 12–13 minutes until al dente. Save at least a glass of the cooking water – this is crucial for creating the emulsion.
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Step 4: The magic moment
Drain the pasta and immediately toss it into the egg mixture, keeping it near the heat source. Leave it to rest for a minute, then add the crispy guanciale and a spoonful of fat. Start mixing immediately, swirling the bowl in a circular motion, from back to front, rather than using a spoon, so that the sauce clings to each strand of pasta.
If necessary, add a little cooking liquid to make the sauce creamy. This is the most delicate stage, as the eggs, cheese and fat from the guanciale emulsify with the pasta's gluten and the cooking water. Work quickly but carefully.
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Step 5: The finishing touches
Plate the pasta in neat nests. Sprinkle generously with pecorino and pepper. Serve immediately—carbonara waits for no one!
![Spaghetti Carbonara 3]()
