Pasta all’Amatriciana – the Roman classic with character
Learn all about pasta all'amatriciana, from its origins in Amatrice to the official STG recipe. Includes tips, history, and an authentic recipe.
From gricia to amatriciana
After cacio e pepe and carbonara, we conclude our Roman pasta story with amatriciana, a hearty and warming dish. This dish originated as a simple meal for shepherds and farmers in the region around Amatrice, about 2.5 hours from Rome. Their daily fare consisted of pasta, enriched with whatever ingredients they had available: dairy, grain, pork and other meat products.
The first version of this dish, known as gricia, was essentially cacio e pepe with the addition of guanciale. In the 17th and 18th centuries, a new ingredient arrived that would change everything: tomatoes – introduced from South America and cultivated in the region around Naples. Combined with guanciale and pecorino Romano, they led to the creation of pasta all'amatriciana, a dish that is now recognised with STG status and that is loved worldwide.
A Dish with History
According to local tradition, Dante Alighieri stopped in Amatrice in 1300 to enjoy a bowl of pasta, which, at that time, did not contain tomatoes. Today, pasta all’amatriciana is synonymous with Roman trattorias, but its true origins are firmly rooted in the countryside: it's hearty dish, genuine and bursting with flavour.
The essence of amatriciana
The official ingredients are clearly defined:
- Guanciale from Amatrice – the heart of the sauce.
- Tomatoes – preferably San Marzano, for their sweet, full flavour.
- Pecorino Romano – spicy and aromatic.
- Chilli pepper – for a fresh, spicy touch.
- Dry white wine – to give the sauce depth.
- And finally – extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper.
No garlic, no onion, although some chefs secretly add them.
A European quality label
The recipe for amatriciana is protected by the STG label (Specialità Tradizionale Garantita), an official European quality label for traditional recipes and preparation methods. Unlike PDO (Protected Designation of Origin, DOP in Italian) or PGI (Protected Geographical Indication, IGP), which protect the origin of a product, the STG label guarantees the way in which a product is made. What you eat is truly traditional.
For Amatriciana, this means:
- The authenticity of the recipe is ensured by strict European regulations on ingredients and preparation methods.
- The fixed ingredients are guanciale, pecorino Romano, peeled tomatoes (preferably San Marzano) and white wine, which are prepared according to a defined method.
- There are no geographical restrictions: the sauce does not have to be made in Amatrice to carry the TSG label, as long as the recipe is followed exactly.
What are some other well-known examples of TSG products? Pizza Napoletana and mozzarella.
Which pasta to choose?
Traditionally, you would choose bucatini, the thick hollow spaghetti that soaks up the sauce. But spaghetti or rigatoni are also perfect.
The authentic recipe - Pasta all’Amatriciana
Ingredients for 4 people:
- 400 g bucatini or rigatoni
- 200 g guanciale
- 500 g San Marzano tomatoes
- 40 ml dry white wine
- 125 g Pecorino Romano
- 1 chilli pepper
- 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- Black pepper, salt
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Step 1: Fry the guanciale
Cut the guanciale into pieces the thickness of bacon bits. Place in a cold pan and set over medium heat; allow the fat to melt slowly. Increase the heat slightly and cook until the pieces are golden and crisp, without drying out. Lift out and set aside; reserve the rendered fat in the pan.
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Step 2: Make the tomato sauce
Peel the tomatoes, remove the seeds and chop into pieces. Fry gently in olive oil, then add white wine and allow it to evaporate. Add chilli pepper, salt and black pepper. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, then mash the tomatoes. For a silkier texture, blend briefly, then return to the pan.
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Step 3: Combine flavours
Add the guanciale and its drippings to the sauce and simmer briefly to allow the flavours to blend. Adjust seasoning.
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Step 4: Cook the pasta.
Cook the bucatini al dente in salted water. Reserve a glass of the cooking water. Toss the pasta with the sauce, adding some of the reserved cooking water to get a glossy coating on the bucatini.
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Step 5: The finishing touches
Mix two-thirds of the pecorino into the pasta. Serve in deep plates, then sprinkle with the remaining pecorino and a final twist of pepper. Remove the whole chilli if used.
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