Supplì - the Roman croquette that makes hearts (and mozzarella) melt
Discover the story behind Rome’s iconic supplì al telefono – from its origins and evolution to the ingredients, variations, and a luxury homemade recipe inspired by Supplizio.
Supplì: the croquette you always want one more of (and then another ...)
There are certain snacks that have taken on a life of their own all over the world. The croquette, with its crispy exterior and soft, creamy filling, is one of them. France says it invented it, the Dutch made the bitterbal their own, and Spain, Brazil and Japan each created their own beloved versions.
But nowhere did this humble bite evolve quite as brilliantly as in Italy – where it became supplì, the Roman rice croquette with that irresistible heart of melted mozzarella.
Supplì brings all of Italy together in a single bite: mozzarella from Campania, rice from Lombardy, ragù from Emilia‑Romagna. Even its name is a playful nod to the French word surprise – hinting at the creamy surprise on the inside.
A bite of history – from Versailles to the streets of Rome
The croquette first appeared in 17th‑century France when chef François Pierre de la Varenne wrote down the recipe in 1651 at the court of Louis XIV. Centuries later, Napoleon's troops brought croquettes to Rome, and the rest, as they say, is history.
Supplì became a street food classic before the term even existed, and was sold at fairs, festivities, and eventually in every Roman neighborhood. Today it remains one of the city’s most beloved bites, often called “supplì al telefono”, because the melted mozzarella stretches like the cord of an old telephone when you break it open.
From palla di riso to supplì al telefono
Legend has it that Napoleon’s soldiers brought with them the recipe for palla di riso from the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies – a cousin of the Sicilian arancino. In Rome, this nutritious snack was reinterpreted: it got more meat, richer flavours, extra mozzarella, and the rice was prepared as risotto rather than boiled. The result? A snack that is so much more than just leftovers in a crispy coating.
What goes into a supplì?
A traditional supplì consists of:
- Rice: Carnaroli, Arborio or Vialone Nano
- Tomato sauce: usually a simple sauce based on onion, tomato and olive oil
- Mozzarella: the heart of the snack and the source of the 'telephone wire' effect.
- Breading: flour → egg → breadcrumbs → fry to deep golden perfection
And of course, many modern Roman eateries play with seasonal fillings and flavours and always come up with something new and delicious.
Popular varieties (and why you'll want to try them all)
- Supplì all’Amatriciana: tomato, guanciale, pecorino
- Supplì Carbonara: egg, guanciale, pecorino, black pepper
- Supplì Cacio e Pepe: a creamy filling without tomatoes – minimalistic but mega tasty
- Supplì ai Funghi: with mushrooms and Parmesan – for that perfect autumn day
- Supplì al Pesto: a modern version with basil pesto
- Supplì di Zucca e Parmigiano: pumpkin and Parmesan – velvety soft and irresistible.
- Supplì alla Coda alla Vaccinara: with an oxtail sauce, pure Roman luxury.
How to eat supplì (the Roman way)
With your hands. Standing. At the counter. Preferably with a glass of wine or a Spritz.
Supplì used to be street food par excellence: vendors would walk through the alleys of Rome carrying a caldara filled with hot oil. Today, you’ll find them everywhere, from old‑school pizzerias to high‑end restaurants.
The master of supplì: Arcangelo Dandini (Supplizio, Rome)
At Supplizio, chef Arcangelo Dandini elevates supplì to an art form. His exact recipe is closely guarded, but a few signature elements are known:
- a rich ragù with beef, sausage, sometimes chicken livers,
- a risotto base made with top‑quality Carnaroli,
- excellent mozzarella for the perfect cheese pull,
- a double coating for maximum crunch and dryness.
When you are in Rome, you simply must try his supplì.
Make your own supplí and bring a taste of Rome into your kitchen
Supplì may be a type of street food, but they are not the kind of snack that can be whipped up in five minutes. Real supplì require time, patience, and high-quality ingredients. Think of a rich ragù, risotto that has been left to slowly simmer, and mozzarella that will soon form those iconic 'telephone wires'.
This recipe is inspired by the luxurious supplì of Supplizio in Rome: rich, creamy and complex, and absolutely worth the effort. You'll be proud to serve these supplì to your friends and family.
The master of supplì: Arcangelo Dandini (Supplizio, Rome)
Ingredients for 30 supplì:
For the rich ragù:
- - 2 tbsp olive oil
- - 1 medium onion, finely chopped
- - 1 clove of garlic, finely chopped
- - Bouquet garni
- - 100 g Italian pork sausage (salsiccia, without skin)
- - 200 g minced beef
- - 50 g chicken livers, very finely chopped (optional but highly recommended)
- - 100 ml dry white wine
- - 1 litre good quality tomato passata
- - Salt, black pepper and a pinch of nutmeg
For the risotto base:
- - 300 g Carnaroli or Arborio rice
- - 750 ml warm light stock
- - 40 g grated Pecorino Romano
- - 200 g mozzarella, cut into 1 cm cubes
For the crispy coating:
- - 100 g flour
- - 3 eggs, lightly beaten
- - 200 g breadcrumbs
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Step 1: Make the rich ragù.
Heat the olive oil in a deep pan. Fry the onion and garlic over a low heat until translucent. Add the salsiccia, minced beef and, if desired, the chicken livers. Fry until the meat is browned. Deglaze with white wine and allow to reduce.
Add the passata, along with the bouquet garni, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Simmer gently for at least 30 minutes until you have a deep, aromatic sauce with a slightly thickened texture.
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Step 2: Make the risotto using the sauce.
Add the rice directly to the warm ragù sauce. Stir well to coat each grain in sauce.
Gradually add warm water or stock, one ladleful at a time, stirring continuously as you would with a traditional risotto. Cook until the rice is al dente and all the liquid has been absorbed (about 20 minutes). You will end up with a very creamy, thick red risotto.
Remove the ragù from the heat, take out the bouquet garni and stir in the pecorino. Spread the mixture out on a flat dish and leave to cool completely. This can be done perfectly well the day before.
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Step 3: Shape the supplì.
Take 50-60 g of cooled rice mixture. Press it lightly and flatten it in your hand. Place a few cubes of mozzarella in the centre. Fold the rice around the cheese to form a compact oval shape. Ensure the mozzarella is completely enclosed (because there is nothing worse than a leaking supplì).
![Suppli 8]()
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Step 4: Make the crispy crust.
Prepare three bowls:
- Flour
- Beaten egg
- Breadcrumbs
Roll each supplì first in flour, then in egg and finally in breadcrumbs. For extra crunch, repeat the egg and breadcrumb steps.
![Suppli 6]()
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Step 5: Deep frying
Heat the oil to 175°C. Fry the supplì in small batches for 3-4 minutes, or until they are a deep golden brown and crispy. Drain on kitchen paper and serve immediately.
When you cut them open, the mozzarella should stretch like an old-fashioned telephone cord. No string? Then it's not a supplì! 😉
![Suppli 1]()
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Extra tips (as a Roman nonna would give)
- Use risotto rice, not regular rice.
- Make the ragù rich enough – supplì need to have 'body'.
- Allow the risotto to cool thoroughly before shaping the croquettes.
- Moisten your hands – otherwise the rice will stick to your fingers.
- Buy good-quality mozzarella.
- Serve supplì with an Aperol spritz or a glass of Frascati, or just eat them on the street, as they are meant to be eaten.
Are you a fan of rich Italian comfort classics like this supplì? Then you've got to try my recipe for lasagne with beef ragu and pangrattato – a casserole dish that brings the same southern warmth.
Lasagne with a beef ragu and pangrattato (button).