King Oyster Muschroom Toast New-Style
The season for cèpes is short, but that's no reason to miss out on preparing Ganbara's signature dish in San Sebastian: cèpes with quail egg. Luckily, there's a mushroom with a similar texture and flavour that you can enjoy all year round: the eryngii, also known as king oyster mushroom. This incredibly versatile mushroom is a star in both Mediterranean and Asian gastronomy. Once you've discovered it, the eryngii will become a favourite in your kitchen too. Treat yourself to the rich and delicate flavour of this special mushroom with my recipe for king oyster mushroom toast new-style.
Where does the eryngii come from?
The eryngii, also called the king oyster mushroom or French horn mushroom, is native to countries around the Mediterranean Sea - such as parts of Europe and North Africa - as well as Russia, the Middle East and Central Asia. Today, the mushroom is widely used and cultivated in the Far East, especially in Japan, Korea and China.
A one-of-a-kind mushroom
The eryngii (Pleurotus Eryngii) is truly a singular species within the oyster mushroom family. It has a unique shape and flavour and looks different from other oyster mushrooms. The eryngii does not have the typical woody, tough stem. In addition, it is the largest of the oyster mushrooms and grows in clusters. Its stem is long and thick and the velvety, light brown cap has white or lilac spores. The eryngii has a low moisture content and a fleshy, firm texture.
The taste of the eryngii mushroom
The eryngii has a rich umami flavour and a subtle aroma of almonds.
A vegan-friendly mushroom
The eryngii has a firm, meaty texture, making it a great meat substitute. This is why it's so popular among vegetarians and vegans. And it's no surprise that it's also known as the 'vegan scallop'!
Things to look out for when buying eryngii
When you buy eryngii, go for the ones with firm, smooth stems. The caps are delicate, so check they're not broken. Most of the mushrooms are well trimmed, with no soil on them. You can give them a brush, but don't rinse them. Eryngii stay fresh really well and can be stored in the fridge for at least a week.
Cooking with eryngii
Eryngii has a meaty texture and a rich umami flavour, making it a favourite in cuisines around the world. Like other mushrooms, it absorbs flavours really well. It remains firm during cooking, so you can stew, roast, grill, sauté and deep-fry it. Here are some ideas for flavour combinations and preparations:
- Strong flavours: The mild flavour of eryngii goes well with strong flavours such as garlic, soy sauce, Parmesan cheese, truffle, blue cheese, seaweed, bacon and seafood.
- Fresh herbs: Grassy herbs, such as tarragon and parsley, and woody herbs, such as thyme and rosemary, go well with eryngii.
- Raw: Make a carpaccio of eryngii. Use smaller eryngii for a stronger flavour and better texture. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with Parmesan, pecorino or manchego.
- Saute: Eryngii has a rich umami flavour which really comes out when you sauté it in butter. Try it with just a bit of garlic, lemon and parsley to keep it simple.
- Meat substitute: Slice the stems to resemble scallops. Eryngii is also an ideal substitute for chicken, pork and squid.
- Barbecue: Grill eryngii on the barbecue and brush with a glaze of balsamic vinegar. Carve a diagonal diamond pattern into the mushroom slices so that the sides don't curl up.
- Versatile uses: Eryngii are delicious in sauces with pasta, meat or game.
- Asian cuisine: Use eryngii in stir-fries and tempura.
Recipe: Mushroom toast with eryngii new-style
I have fond memories of the delicious signature dish of tapas bar Ganbara in San Sebastián: fried cèpes with quail egg. I've given it a modern twist with eryngii and artichokes, which really brings out the rich umami flavour of the mushrooms.
I also use mushroom salt to add even more flavour. I got the idea at The Chagford Inn, a gastro pub in Devon, UK. You just grind up 15g of dried porcini mushrooms and 15g of Maldon salt to make a powder which makes your food taste fantastic.
Ingredients for 2 people:
- 150 g eryngii
- 1 clove of garlic, chopped
- 2 tablespoons of olive oil
- 1 tablespoon of lemon juice
- 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
- Pepper and salt
For the artichoke puree:
- 3 large artichoke bottoms (canned or frozen)
- Juice of ½ lemon plus 1 tablespoon
- 25 g creme of cashews
- 1 clove of garlic
- 4 tablespoons of olive oil
- ¼ teaspoon chilli powder
- 1 sprig of basil
- Pepper and salt
For the toast:
- 2 thick slices of brioche bread (1.5 cm thick)
- 1 tablespoon of butter
- 1 teaspoon of mushroom salt
To finish:
- 2 quail eggs
- 1 knob of butter
- 1 tablespoon ground Parmesan cheese
- Chopped parsley
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Step 1: Prepare Eryngii
Cut the eryngii lengthwise into slices about 2 mm thick. Use the tip of your knife to carve a diamond pattern into the stems, so that they won't curl up during frying. Then, chop the leftovers from the eryngii caps into 1 cm pieces.
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Step 2: Make artichoke puree
Bring a bowl of salted water up to the boil. Then add the artichoke bottoms, the juice of half a lemon and the garlic. Simmer for 15 minutes, then drain but keep a few tablespoons of the cooking liquid. Next, add the artichoke bottoms with the rest of the ingredients in a blender. Blend to a smooth puree. Add a few tablespoons of cooking liquid if the mixture is too dry. Finally, season with salt and pepper.
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Step 3: Toast the brioche
Start by cutting the crusts off the bread and then cut each slice into four sticks. Heat the butter in a pan, then fry the bread sticks until golden on all four sides. Next, place the sticks on kitchen roll and sprinkle with mushroom salt.
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Step 4: Fry Eryngii
Heat the olive oil and sauté the garlic without colouring. Remove the garlic from the pan. First fry the eryngii slices on both sides and then fry the mushroom pieces separately. Season the mushrooms with salt and pepper, mix in the garlic and drizzle with lemon juice.
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Step 5: Fry quail eggs
Heat the butter and fry the quail eggs sunny side up.
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Step 6: Serve
Make a square on each plate with the sticks of toasted bread and fill the centre with a layer of artichoke purée. Then, cover with the eryngii cubes, and arrange the slices of eryngii on top, finishing with a fried quail egg. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, a pinch of mushroom salt and parsley to finish.
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