How to make your own pasta like a real Italian

From lagana to lasagna

The Romans were already making something that looked a lot like lasagne: wide strips of dough made of flour and water, with a sauce that also served as cooking liquid. They called it lagana, which is where lasagne got its name from.

The Arab influence

The invention of dried pasta is often attributed to the Arabs. They used a technique of drying dough to make it last longer when they were travelling through the desert. This smart idea was mentioned in recipes as early as the 9th century. When the Arabs conquered Sicily, they brought their own cooking techniques with them and the locals gradually adopted them over time. Even now, Sicily is a big producer of dry pasta.

Some historians even go as far back as ancient Persia as a possible origin. The Arabs took it to the west and east, and so it found its way into Chinese cuisine.

Pasta takes over Italy

Over the next few centuries, pasta spread throughout Italy. New forms and methods of preparation emerged, and pasta became more and more an everyday dish. It wasn't until the Middle Ages that people really started cooking pasta in water – Sicilian macaroni for two hours, according to Maestro Martino's 15th-century recipes. From the 17th century, people started to favour al dente cooking, which we now all take for granted. Pasta and cheese were always a standard, but the combination with tomato sauce came around much later. It wasn't until the end of the 18th century that the first pasta al pomodoro appeared on people's tables.

Fresh vs. dried pasta

There are roughly two types of pasta:

• Dried pasta - made from durum wheat (semolina) and water. Think spaghetti, penne, fusilli, farfalle ...
• Fresh pasta - made from flour and eggs in northern and central Italy; from flour and water in southern Italy. Picture tagliatelle, ravioli, lasagne sheets. Emilia-Romagna is the place to go for fresh pasta, with classics like tortellini and cappelletti.

Why that rough pasta is so good

Some pasta producers use a traditional technique known in Italy as Lavorazzione Grezza, in which the pasta is pressed through moulds made of bronze instead of Teflon. This method gives the pasta a slightly rough texture, with fine grooves that hold the sauce perfectly.

So, when you're buying pasta, take a close look at the texture: the smoother and yellower the pasta, the more likely it is to have been produced quickly and cheaply. A good-quality pasta has a soft colour that almost looks like the colour of flour and feels a little rough to the touch. This is a sign that it has been dried slowly and with care, just as it should be.

The magic of fresh pasta

Making fresh pasta is a real art. So, what's the secret to getting a smooth, velvety and thinly rolled-out dough? Just keep practising. But there are some basic rules to follow:

• For every 100g of wheat flour, use 1 egg.
• Use eggs at room temperature.
• Work on a wooden board.
• Replace 20% of the flour with semolina for extra bite.
• Knead until you have a firm, smooth ball of dough.
• Let the dough rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.
• Roll out with a wooden rolling pin or use a pasta machine.
• Use the paste the same day.

Pasta with a twist

Did you know that you can also colour pasta? It is not only beautiful but also really tasty!

• Green: spinach, basil or nettle (blanch briefly and mash)
• Yellow: saffron or turmeric (a pinch is enough)
• Orange: carrot or pumpkin (stewed and mashed)
• Black: squid ink (nero di deppia, typical for seafood pasta)
• Purple: blueberries or red cabbage (for a surprising effect)
• Red: beetroot (cooked and mashed)

Mix the pureed vegetables or spices with the eggs before adding them to the flour. You'll need a bit more flour for each egg.

Cooking pasta: the golden rules

You've made the pasta, so now it's time to cook it! Even the prettiest pasta tastes like nothing if you don't cook it with care. Here's how to do it according to the rules of the art:

• Lots of water, lots of space: use a large pot with lots of water. Fresh pasta needs to be able to move, otherwise it will stick together. Allow for 1 litre of water per 100 g of pasta and stir occasionally so the pasta does not stick.
• Add salt as soon as the water boils. And don't be too stingy with the salt - 8 g of salt per litre of water is the usual amount. This is your only chance to season your pasta. Use coarse sea salt for best results.
• How long does it take to boil? Short and powerful: keep the water at a rolling boil. Fresh pasta cooks way faster than dried. Allow 2 to 4 minutes, depending on the shape and thickness. The pasta should be al dente: firm inside, soft on the outside.
• Do not drain fresh pasta like spaghetti in a colander. Carefully scoop them out of the water with a slotted spoon to avoid breaking or sticking.
• And never rinse pasta with cold water!
• Cooking liquid is the key to making a great sauce. Save a cup of cooking liquid and add some to the sauce to help it bind.
• The dance in the pan: just add the pasta to the sauce in the pan and push the pan forward with a fluid wrist movement. Then quickly pull it back so that the pasta makes a small jump and lands in the middle of the sauce again. Warm them together for a bit longer. Just add a spoonful of the cooking liquid to bind the mixture.

Which sauce goes with which pasta

Not every pasta goes well with every sauce. Pick the right combo and make sure the sauce sticks well and the flavours are balanced. Here are some guidelines to help you out.

• Thin pasta (fresh and dried): light sauces, olive oil, Parmesan cheese.
• Thick, fresh pasta: great for hearty sauces with meat or vegetables.
• Stuffed pasta: light tomato sauce, butter and sage, mild cream sauce.
• Hollow pasta: thick sauces with bits settling in the holes.
• Twisted pasta (like fusilli): pesto and thick veggie sauces.
• Smooth short pasta: creamy sauces like carbonara or in pasta salads.
• Pappardelle: extra wide for rich game ragù and mushroom sauce.

Basic fresh pasta recipe

This recipe makes enough fresh pasta for four people.