Filet américain, a real Belgian classic

Joseph Niels, inventor of filet américain

Joseph Niels, Albert-Jean's grandfather, left as a young man in the early 1900s for London. He found work at the well-known Savoy Hotel, where he gained lots of valuable experience. He returned to Brussels a few years later and got the job as director of La Taverne Royale in the Galleries de la Reine. Joseph Niels was really passionate about food. He created a new recipe for steak tartare in 1924 and called it "filet américain." The dish was made according to a set recipe so that there would be less flavor variation than with steak tartare, which is made at the table and seasoned to the server's liking. He opens his own restaurant, "Canterbury," a few years later, laying the foundation for a successful family business. Over the years, "Canterbury" becomes a training ground for many Belgian chefs, and the recipe for filet américain becomes extremely popular throughout Belgium.

Where did the name "filet américain" come from?

I ask Albert-Jean Niels where his grandfather got the name for the dish, and he says he never told him. But he points out that the name should be seen in the context of the 1920s, when only the very privileged class ate meat and many dreamed of making a fortune in America. So it was a "rich" dish that made one dream of faraway places where everything seemed better than here. So, there's really nothing American about filet américain. After all, most Americans don't like eating raw meat. But Joseph knew how to tap into the emotions of his time.

The next generations

Joseph Niels passed on the recipe to his descendants, who kept their ancestor's legacy alive and now run three regional restaurants in the Belgian capital: "Au Vieux Saint Martin," "Au Grand Forestier," and "Au Savoy," named after Joseph. The recently opened "Claridge" restaurant in Waterloo is also part of the family legacy. Filet américain is still made the same 100% authentic way in all the restaurants and is served with a delicious bowl of fries, the legendary dish Americain frites. You can also enjoy filet américain as a snack on crispy toast. Then, you order a toast cannibale.

The original recipe

The Niels family has kindly allowed me to share their original recipe for filet américain. It's as follows:

Chopped beef 1^st choice, rump roast or tâche noire (more flavor)

Coarsely minced beef 1st choice, rump roast or tache noire (richer in flavor) without sinews, mayonnaise, spiced up with finely chopped piccalilli, add 4 egg yolks per liter of mayonnaise, salt, pepper, real Worcestershire sauce (Lea&Perrins or any other quality brand), finely chopped onions and parsley, capers, no garlic nor lemon or pickled cucumbers. Mix well with a wooden fork to obtain the right smoothness. Served of course with not too thick Belgian fries (bintje), a bit of watercress, onions and sweet and sour pickles that do not spoil the taste of the meat.

It's really easy to make filet américain at home. You just need to start with a really fresh piece of meat that's been ground under the best hygiene conditions. These days, lots of butchers have refrigerated meat grinders, so they can grind the meat fresh for their customers. Next, you add mayonnaise and all the other ingredients listed. Since the original recipe doesn't include quantities, I make filet américain to my own taste. Here's how I do it.

Restaurants of the Niels family

• Au Vieux Saint Martin: Grote Zavel 38, 1000 Brussel

• Au Grand Forestier: Avenue du Grand Forestier 2, 1170 Watermael-Bosvoorde
• Au Savoy: Georges Brugmannplein 35, 1050 Elsene
• Claridge: Chaussée de Bruxelles 128A, 1410 Waterloo

Recipe: Filet Americain

This recipe makes enough filet américain for two to three people.

It's best to mix the filet américain in a chilled glass mixing bowl. That way, the meat will keep its natural color.