Rice from the Camargue: The White Gold of Southern France

How Rice Travelled from South Asia to the Camargue

We still don't know exactly when and where humans first started growing rice. What we do know is that it has played a significant role in civilisations, rituals and daily diets for over 5,000 years. Rice slowly spread westwards from Asia, following in the footsteps of armies, traders and conquerors.

Europe first became acquainted with rice as an imported product. It was Alexander the Great who, around 320 BC, introduced rice cultivation to the region from India. The Arabs introduced long-grain varieties to Africa and Spain, and it was not until much later – in the 15th–16th centuries – that rice truly took root on European soil.

In France, rice remained somewhat unusual for a long time until the Duke of Sully — an adviser to Henri IV — convinced the king that the Rhône delta, the Camargue, was ideal for rice cultivation. And he was proved right.

Today, the region boasts over 20,000 hectares of rice fields, most of which carry a European PGI label. Awarded in 2000, this label guarantees both origin and quality. The Camargue is now the heart of rice cultivation in France in terms of both quantity and quality.

From Rice Paddy to Kitchen

Rice never goes straight from the field to your kitchen. Between harvest and plate, each grain goes through various stages, each with its own name:

• Paddy rice: unhusked, harvested rice – not edible
• Brown rice: rice without the husk but with the bran – requires a long cooking time.
• Cargo rice: whole grain rice intended for maritime transport
• White rice: without bran and polished. Softer but less nutritious
• Wild rice: not actually rice, but a water plant from North America.
• Sticky rice: rich in amylopectin, typical of festive Asian dishes.

Which Rice Grows in the Camargue? 

There are two main types of rice grown in the Camargue:

Sativa japonica

• Short to medium-length, round grains.
• Slightly sticky.
• Perfect for risotto, paella, sushi and desserts.

Sativa indica

• Long, slender grains
• Barely sticky.
• Ideal for steamed rice, salads and stir-fries.

The Red Rice of the Camargue 

When the outer layer of whole grain rice is removed, a natural-coloured bran layer is left around the grain. This can be brown, red, or even black, depending on the variety. Depending on additional crossbreeding, these shades can vary to purple or pink, whichever is favoured by customers. But don't forget that beneath that coloured husk there is always a white rice grain.

The Camargue region is known for its red rice. This whole grain rice gets its colour from the clay-like soil and natural mutation. The grains remain firm after cooking and have a distinct, nutty flavour. Red Camargue rice has a PGI label and is rightly considered a rice for connoisseurs.

Why Rice Thrives in the Camargue

The climate and geography of the Camargue make it perfect for growing Mediterranean rice.

• Fresh water from the Rhône irrigates the rice fields.
• Plenty of sunlight and mild temperature variations promote growth.
• The Mistral wind dries the rice after harvesting and protects it from disease.
• The flat, clay-like soil can easily be flooded.
• Regular flushing with fresh water keeps the salinity of the soil under control.

It is therefore no coincidence that around 100,000 tonnes of rice are produced here every year.

To Rinse or Not to Rinse? 

In the past, rice was rinsed to remove impurities and dust accumulated during transportation. Nowadays, it is mainly done to wash away the starch, making the rice less sticky after cooking.

But be careful:

• Never rinse short-grain rice, risotto rice, sushi rice or wholegrain rice.
• Rinsing also removes water-soluble vitamins and minerals.

As with everything in the kitchen, it depends on what you want to make.

Cooking Rice: Choosing the Right Technique 

Rice cannot be eaten raw. It must always be cooked, and there are several ways to do this.

Boiling in Water

Absorption Method 

Cook the rice in a limited amount of water (roughly twice as much water as rice for long-grain varieties, slightly less for short-grain). Boil for 8 to 10 minutes, then leave to rest, covered and off the heat, until the water has been completely absorbed.

This produces fairly dry rice with grains that do not stick together.

Creole Method 

Cook the rice in plenty of water (about 3 litres per kilo of rice), without a lid. Drain when cooked and rinse briefly under cold water.

This method is only suitable for white rice and produces tender, slightly moist grains.

Steaming

The rice is first boiled briefly and then steamed. This method is mainly used in Asia and the Persian Gulf and requires some experience.

Cooking in Fat: The Pilaf Method

First, the rice is fried in fat. This causes the starch to swell and absorb the fat, enabling the grains to absorb sauces and herbs.

This technique forms the basis for risotto, paella, and fried rice. Rice cooked in milk also falls into this category — after all, milk is a fatty liquid.  

Rice on Your Plate 

Rice is gluten-free, easy to digest, and high in carbohydrates. With around 350–360 kcal per 100 g, it is an important source of energy. Most of the vitamins are found in the bran, which is why it's a good idea to eat wholegrain or coloured rice from time to time.