Anchoïade Camarguaise – A Southern French Anchovy Sauce to Share
Anchoïade camarguaise is a bold Southern French anchovy sauce, traditionally served with bread and raw vegetables. Salty, generous and made for sharing.
Why Anchoïade Belongs in the Centre of the Table
Anchoïade is not a sauce that is served on its own. It is a perfect accompaniment to bread, raw vegetables and a glass of wine. In the Camargue, it's a dish for sharing, with everyone dipping, spreading and creating their own combinations.
The base is simple: anchovies, garlic and olive oil. No frills. The flavour is unique and genuine, designed to pique the taste buds.
In this blog, I will tell you exactly what anchoïade camarguaise is, where it comes from, and how you can make it today without losing its special taste.
What Is Anchoïade Camarguaise?
Anchoïade is a sauce made from anchovies, garlic and olive oil. It has an emulsified texture and a distinctive flavour. Traditionally eaten cold with raw vegetables or on bread, it can also be served warm with fish or vegetables.
The name comes from the Occitan word anchoïada, which literally means 'anchovy'. That says it all. This is not a sauce with anchovies in it; this is anchovy, plain and simple, measured out and spread.
Where Does Anchoïade Come From?
When we look back at 19th-century Provence, we see that anchoïade was described as a dish of the people. Jean-Baptiste Reboul, the author of La Cuisinière Provençale (1897), described it as a simple and straightforward dish intended to stimulate the appetite. It was not a refined starter, but rather sustenance.
Chef Apollon Caillat also viewed anchoïade as a symbol of identity. For him, the quality of the salted anchovies and the physical labour involved in pounding them was paramount. The sauce was not meant to be smooth; it had to be alive. The scent of raw garlic and fermented fish was not toned down, but rather celebrated. That was the scent of the south.
Anchoïade Then and Now
Whereas anchoïade used to be made exclusively with salted anchovies from barrels, soaked bread and a mortar and pestle, nowadays we’re more likely to use a blender and anchovies in oil. It's practical, but different.
- In the past, the texture was coarser, there was more garlic and the umami flavour was deeper due to fermentation.
- Now, anchoïade is smoother, milder and more accessible.
The Camargue version still uses bread as a binder, whereas modern versions sometimes use an egg yolk instead. This stabilises the emulsion but takes the dish away from its origins. Here, we stick with bread.
What Makes the Camarguaise Version Different
Whereas the classic Provençal anchoïade is often quite simple, the Camargue version is more complex.
- Soaked bread is added for creaminess.
- add a dash of red wine vinegar,
- and sometimes capers.
The result is a spreadable sauce, like mayonnaise but without egg. It is less intense and slightly more nuanced, making it perfect for sharing.
Texture, Technique and Binding
A good anchoïade should not be 'perfect'. It must be:
- thick but not stiff
- smooth, but slightly grainy.
- rich without being heavy.
It is best to use a mortar and pestle. This gradually releases the oil and flavour without heating. Add the oil slowly, as you would with mayonnaise, until the sauce thickens. If the anchoïade becomes too thick, add a little water.
How Anchoïade Is Served in the Camargue
In the Camargue region of France, anchoïade is never eaten on its own. It belongs in the centre of the table.
Serve with:
- raw carrot, celery, radish
- cauliflower florets
- finely sliced fennel
- cherry tomatoes
- hard-boiled eggs
- toasted country bread or fougasse.
How to Keep Raw Vegetables Crisp
Crisp vegetables are essential. Here are a few simple rules:
- Soak carrots, celery and radishes in ice-cold water for at least 30 minutes.
- Keep fennel and cauliflower in water with lemon.
- Cut peppers and cucumbers at the very last minute.
- Never salt them in advance.
Serve everything fresh and cold, ideally on a platter with crushed ice.
Wine to Serve with Anchoïade
The classic choice is the light, mineral and briny Vin Gris de Camargue (AOP Sable de Camargue).
Other good choices include:
- Cassis Blanc
- Bandol Rosé
- Picpoul de Pinet
You need a fresh wine to balance out the garlic and anchovies.
What to Do with Leftover Anchoïade
Anchoïade is an excellent flavour enhancer.
- Stir it into warm pasta with a little of the cooking liquid.
- Use it as a sauce with grilled fish or in papillotes.
- Stir it into roasted vegetables.
Gently heat the sauce, but never let it boil, otherwise it may curdle. If necessary, add a splash of water or white wine.
Recipe: Anchoïade Camarguaise
Camargue anchovy sauce is anything but subtle. It is bold, salty and unpretentious. It's the kind of dish that gathers people around the table and never fails to impress.
Ingredients for 6 to 8 people:
- 200 g anchovy fillets
- 2 cloves of garlic, peeled
- 75 g white breadcrumbs, without the crust
- 125 ml milk or water to soak the bread
- 200 ml extra virgin olive oil
- 3 tbsp lukewarm water (If needed)
- 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
- ½ tsp Provençal herbs
- Black pepper
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Method:
Soak the bread, then squeeze out any excess liquid. Mash the anchovies, garlic, bread and vinegar together to form a thick paste. Then, add the Provençal herbs and slowly stir in the olive oil, until the sauce emulsifies. Add some water if the sauce becomes too thick. Season with pepper.
Alternatively, blend the anchovies, garlic, bread and vinegar in a blender. Add the Provençal herbs, followed by the oil a little at a time until the sauce emulsifies.
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