Rome at Its Most Charming: Trastevere and Gianicolo
From the lively streets of Trastevere to the green slopes of Gianicolo, this walk reveals Rome at its most authentic. No monumental grandeur here – just charm, silence, and vistas that steal your breath away.
Rediscovering Rome: A City with Hidden Layers
After the hustle and bustle of Piazza Navona and the Spanish Steps, it's time for a different rhythm. Trastevere and Gianicolo take you to a Rome that is less noisy but all the richer in character. Here, you wander through medieval alleys, past churches covered in mosaics and through parks where cypresses and umbrella pines dot the skyline.
Trastevere – A Village Within the City
Trastevere sits on the west bank of the Tiber and was once home to fishermen and craftsmen. The name literally means “across the Tiber.” Today, it’s one of Rome’s most authentic neighbourhoods, with a maze of cobblestone streets, weathered façades, and a lively atmosphere that truly comes alive at night.
Here you taste real Roman life: trattorias serving recipes passed down for generations, wine bars, street musicians, and squares buzzing with locals. At its heart lies Piazza di Santa Maria, home to the basilica of the same name – one of Rome’s oldest churches, famous for its golden mosaics from the 12th century.
Other highlights? Villa Farnesina, a Renaissance villa adorned with Raphael’s frescoes, and the Orto Botanico, a botanical garden offering a green oasis in the city. On Sundays, Trastevere transforms into one giant market at Porta Portese, where you’ll find antiques, clothes, and local delicacies.
Santa Maria in Trastevere – Mosaics That Tell Stories
The church itself is from the 4th century, but it was in the Middle Ages that it was given its current look. Legend has it that it was the first church dedicated to Mary and also the place where the first Christian worship service was held. The golden mosaics are stunning, showing Mary with saints and scenes from her life. The light that comes through the windows makes the gold even more intense – it's like a place where time seems to stand still.
Fontana dell’Acqua Paola – Il Fontanone, a Baroque Surprise
From Trastevere, climb up to Gianicolo, where you will find the Fontana dell'Acqua Paola. This imposing fountain – affectionately known by the Romans as ‘Il Fontanone’ (the Big Fountain) – is one of the most impressive Baroque fountains in Rome. It is located high on the hill, on Via Garibaldi, and offers one of the most romantic and picturesque spots in the city.
The fountain was built in the 17th century and marks the end point (mostra terminale) of the old Trajan Aqueduct. Pope Paul V (Borghese) had this dilapidated water channel restored to provide the inhabitants of Gianicolo and Trastevere with clean drinking water. The water comes from Lake Bracciano, about 40 kilometres away.
Water flows over marble arches and into wide basins that reflect the sky. Il Fontanone might not be as famous as the Trevi Fountain, but it's just as photogenic. Best of all, here you can escape the hustle and bustle of the city and enjoy a great panoramic view of Rome.
Passeggiata del Gianicolo – A Walk with Views and History
The Gianicolo hill, often referred to as the “eighth hill”, is a green lung above Rome. As you stroll along the Passeggiata del Gianicolo, you can enjoy panoramic views of the city while surrounded by cypresses and parasol pines: from St. Peter's dome to the Colosseum and even the distant Alban Hills. The view is particularly breathtaking at sunset.
The Gianicolo is a place of both tranquil beauty and historical significance. During the Risorgimento, the unification of Italy, fierce battles were fought here in 1849. Along the pathway, there are busts of heroes of the Roman Republic, as well as the impressive equestrian statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi in Piazzale Garibaldi.
At the top of the hill is the Faro del Gianicolo, a lighthouse gifted by the Italian community in Argentina in 1911. Interestingly, a cannon shot is fired from the Gianicolo every day at 12 noon – a tradition that has been in place since 1847 to synchronise the bells of Rome.
Rome Between Charm and Silence
This walk reveals a different side to Rome, with quiet squares instead of busy piazzas and winding alleys instead of grand staircases. Here, you can feel the soul of the city in a mosaic, a fountain or a view that takes your breath away.
Want to discover more? Read the last part of our series: Dining in Rome – from osteria to haute cuisine and taste the flavours of the eternal city.