Picturesque and rugged Cornwall - the north coast
We're continuing our travels through the gorgeous landscapes of Cornwall, exploring deserted beaches and rocky coves along the wind-swept north coast. The mysterious Bodmin Moor is a great place for long walks, past abandoned mines and jagged granite rock formations. Our base is Padstow, a lively fishing town with a great culinary scene.
From Portreath to Padstow
The stretch of coastline from Portreath to Padstow is famous for its dramatic cliffs and gorgeous beaches.
Portreath
Back in the day, Cornwall was a hive of mining activity. The port of Portreath handled the export of raw copper ore, which was taken to Wales for smelting. These days, it's a sleepy seaside town with one of the country's best beaches. It's great for swimming, and the old harbor wall attracts surfers. When the waves are up, the wall creates an exciting surf break.
The Pepper Pot is the best spot to enjoy the stunning view of Portreath beach. Built in 1846, the stone structure was originally used as a signal for passing ships. Today, it's a popular destination for photographers wanting to capture the incredible scenery.
Bedruthan Steps
Further along the coast, beyond Newquay, you'll find Bedruthan Steps, one of the most dramatic beaches I've ever laid eyes on. Even in the rain it's worth a visit. The 'steps' are actually a series of slate rocks scattered on the beach. According to local folklore, the rocks were placed there by the giant Bedruthan, as stepping stones during high tides. Currently, access to the beach is restricted due to falling rocks.
Camel Estuary
The mouth of the Camel River is marked by the infamous Doom Bar, a huge sandbar that is completely exposed at low tide. In fact, you can even walk on it then. The sandbar is so treacherous that 600 ships have already run aground on it. There's a legend associated with it too. It's said that the Doom Bar came about because of a mermaid's curse.
Once upon a time, Padstow's harbor was watched over by a mermaid. She kept a careful eye on all the ships entering and leaving. But one day, a mariner shot at her, and she cursed the harbor in response. Soon after, there was a huge storm and many of the ships in the harbor were destroyed. The huge waves brought in loads of sand that created a sandbar and blocked access to the harbor ever since.
Pentire Point and The Rumps
If you head across the Camel Estuary, you'll find a lovely coastal walking trail from the village of Polzeath to the beautiful rocky plateau of Pentire Point and The Rumps. The views across the water are stunning, and you can even spot falcons and seals in some areas. The route is about 6.5 km long, with a few steep bits, but it's well-signposted and easy to navigate.
Padstow
Padstow is a must if you're planning a trip through Cornwall. It's a charming, welcoming place, with lots to see and do. The fishing port is full of activity. There are some lovely shops, great restaurants, charming hotels, beautiful beaches and lots of water sports to enjoy. This food-loving destination is perfect for people of all ages.
Foodie hotspot
It was celebrity chefs Rick Stein, Paul Ainsworth and Nathan Outlaw who put Padstow on the map as a foodie hot spot. As you'd expect, there's an abundance here of seafood restaurants, but it's by no means limited to that. There are also gastropubs and plenty of other options like Italian or vegetarian food, grill restaurants, and much more besides.
National Lobster Hatchery
If you're looking for something fun and unique to do, why not visit the National Lobster Hatchery in Padstow and adopt a baby lobster?
The National Lobster Hatchery was set up in 2005 as a non-profit organisation with the aim of protecting Cornwall's lobster population. It's a tough road to adulthood for lobster larvae. At the hatchery, Mother Nature is given a helping hand. Lobsters carrying eggs are brought to the hatchery, where the eggs are removed. The lobsters are then released back into the sea. The eggs hatch in the hatchery in ideal conditions, and the lobster larvae go through several stages until they become tiny baby lobsters. These lobsters are returned to the sea with the help of fishermen and can then grow into adult lobsters. The hatchery aims to set out 100 thousand juvenile lobsters into the sea every year.
At the visitor center, you can watch the whole process from start to finish and support the organisation financially by adopting a lobster. We adopted two of them and named them Spice and Ginger!
Bodmin Moor
Bodmin Moor is a wild, unspoiled area located in Cornwall's heart, just a stone's throw away from vast beaches and breathtaking cliffs. The moor is a fascinating landscape with a rich history and diverse natural features, including prehistoric sites, unique granite formations, and former mining villages. While you can explore the moor's vast expanses, it's always a good idea to have a map handy since some sites aren't accessible by hiking trails.
Many of the hills of Bodmin Moor have rock formations on top. They are called tors. The Cheesewring is particularly striking. It's a million-year-old natural sculpture of loose stones that remain perfectly stacked separately from each other.