Córdoba, my favorite places to eat, sleep and shop

The corridors are painted in soft off-white and water green shades, and are lined with plush, chic golden-brown sofas that give the hotel a relaxed, oriental vibe. The main salon is a real highlight. A double door with beautiful woodcarvings welcomes you into a room that seems straight out of a fairy tale. The salon's original Moorish-style niches have been perfectly restored and are reminiscent of the arches in the Mezquita. The beautiful ceiling is a combination of delicate plaster work and hand-painted images in the dot technique, creating a stunning mosaic effect. And then there's the gorgeous walled-in patio garden, with lush green plants, colorful flowers and fruit trees that line the mosaic-tiled swimming pool.

The first floor can be reached by a weathered stone staircase, which is the original one. Its balustrade is lined with blue and yellow mosaics. The rooms are really spacious and elegant, and the service is absolutely top-notch. You get a personalized treat in the room every day. Plus, the bed is huge and really comfy, there's a fully stocked minibar, loads of closet space and a modern bathroom. And the toilet is pretty special too, with its built-in nightlight and heated seat.

Eating in Cordoba

Arbequina Restaurante

Named after the olive cultivar found all around the hills of Córdoba and Jaén, the restaurant Arbequina at the hotel Hospes Palacio del Bailío offers traditional dishes with a creative twist. The restaurant is located in the building's inner courtyard, covered by a glass roof. The walls have some original 16th- and 17th-century frescoes, but what's really amazing is seeing the ancient Roman ruins of a patrician residence from the 1st century AD, right under the glass floor. The ruins were only discovered 20 years ago, and they contain perfectly intact mosaic floors in black and white with a honeycomb pattern, as well as red-brown plastered walls and intact columns. As a hotel guest, you can even visit the ruins.

Let's talk about the food, too. The restaurant serves modern versions of traditional dishes that are really tasty. We loved the roasted aubergines with miso and dried tuna flakes, the oxtail that was really tender, and the flavorful Iberico pork. The restaurant is fully booked every night, so reservations are essential.

Casa Mazál

In the Jewish quarter, you'll find the Seraphic Jewish-Spanish restaurant, Casa Mazál. This tiny gem is known for its creative dishes that perfectly blend Jewish and Spanish flavors. With just 18 seats, this intimate restaurant is bursting with charm. And when the weather is nice, you can enjoy your meal in the cozy courtyard.

We start our culinary experience with a silky, smooth baba ganoush, served with carrot and cucumber slices for dipping. Next comes artichoke with rose jelly and strips of dried duck ham. This dish is a real surprise. All the flavors are perfectly matched, and the execution is spot on. But most of all, it's just delicious. Finally, we taste the Siniya trout rolled in grape leaves with mint and pomegranate. The fish is served with red cabbage, a pumpkin and courgette stew with fresh herbs, and topped with pineapple and capers. The flavor combination is unique and very special, but oh so delicious.

Casa Mazál is an absolute must if you love discovering new flavors! It's always buzzing with locals, so be sure to book in advance to secure your spot!

Bar Santos

Right at the foot of the magnificent Mezquita, Francisco Santos Serrano, who everyone calls Santos, opened a bar with his wife Carmen in the 1970s. Nobody could have guessed that the place would become a lively hub of activity right in the heart of the city. The couple had to work hard to make ends meet, but their dedication paid off. One day, Santos asked Carmen to make him a tortilla for lunch. The tortilla looked so delicious that customers, one after the other, started ordering one.

So, Bar Santos became known for having the best tortilla in Córdoba, which Carmen made in the kitchen. People often wait in line to buy a slice of the famous tortilla. They then eat it at the foot of the Mezquita, since the bar has only a few seats.

But what makes Bar Santos' tortilla so special?

Santos says there's no secret to it. Just use the best ingredients you can find. Five kilos of potatoes from Villarubia go into a maxi tortilla along with 30 eggs from Fernán Núñez and extra-virgin olive oil from Baena. Each tortilla yields about 28 generous portions and an average of 25 tortillas are sold daily.During Holy Week, that number goes up to 45 tortillas a day.

Everyone who lives in Córdoba or visits the city, even heads of state and celebrities, wants to taste Santos' tortilla. I'm no exception. The tortilla is delicious, not at all dry, and tastes even better with a refreshing beer – the perfect way to enjoy the dish, according to Santos.

La Cucharra de San Lorenzo

La Cucharra is a bit off the beaten track in the San Lorenzo district of town, but it's definitely worth the effort to go there. Chef Paco López opened the restaurant with his brother Narciso in 2006 and it's been a huge success ever since. As soon as you walk in, you feel right at home in the elegant and cozy restaurant. The chef's philosophy is straightforward: use the best seasonal ingredients and a little creativity to elevate Córdoba's classic dishes. Paco López really excels at that.

We had a great salad with boquerones in vinegar at La Cucharra de San Lorenzo, followed by a delicious parmentier of porcini mushrooms with a 63°C egg. The dish was super creamy and really tasty. For our main course, we enjoyed a generous portion of pluma iberico, served with paprika cream and Mediterranean vegetables.

Shopping in Córdoba

Córdoba is a beautiful city with a fascinating history and modern shopping centers. But my main focus is to find local crafts, especially leather and ceramics, to take home as souvenirs!

Meryan, traditional and handmade leather from Córdoba

Córdoba holds a unique spot in the world of Spanish leatherwork. The Arabs brought over some pretty sophisticated techniques, which evolved into what we know today as Guadamecí and Cordobán. Guadamecí is a craft that was developed in Córdoba during the 10th century. It involves laminating high-quality goat leather with silver and then painting it. It's a real luxury product, used for decoration and wall covering. Cordobán is embossed leather, where a pattern is drawn on damp leather and then embossed using various techniques.

Meryan is a family-run company that makes traditional and handmade Córdoba leather products in their workshop on Calleja de las Flores. You can find everything from embossed leather boxes to stationery, suitcases, handbags, and even wall coverings. Meryan also holds demonstrations and workshops to keep the art of Córdoba leather making alive.

Luque Gastrotienda

Get a unique shopping experience at Luque Gastrotienda! This specialty store is owned by Antonio and Mari and is located on Calle Blanco Belmonte. It offers hand-painted ceramics, local wines, olive oil and other excellent regional products. The owners love food and enjoy sharing their knowledge with customers. They'll even show you how to use a clay cooking pot and explain the different types of olive oil from the region. If you love food like I do, Luque Gastrotienda is definitely worth a visit.