The long road to Alaska, a story of letting go and discovering - from Denali to Anchorage
From wilderness to city, with stops along the way full of stories, traditions and unexpected encounters.
In this seventh part of the Alaska series, we travel from Denali to Anchorage. Along the way, we stop in Eklutna, visit the Native Heritage Centre and the Museum of History and Art, and discover the story behind qiviut – the precious down of the musk ox.
From Denali to Anchorage – a road full of contrasts
After the silence of Denali, the drive to Anchorage felt like a transition. The Parks Highway was the best road we had driven on in Alaska so far: wide and well-maintained, with views of mountains that gradually gave way to buildings. The weather was mild but cloudy, and Mount McKinley remained hidden behind the clouds.
Near Wasilla, the landscape changed. The mountains remained, but the villages took on a more typically American character. There were large shops and wide streets, and the atmosphere reminded us of the Midwest. It felt as if Alaska had retreated for a moment, as if we had to search for it in the details.
Eklutna – between Orthodoxy and Athabaskan tradition
We stopped in Eklutna, a small village with a remarkable history. The residents are Athabaskan families with Russian Orthodox roots. The cemetery features colourful spirit houses, which are small wooden structures placed on top of graves. These structures symbolise the transition of the soul, representing a blend of Christian and indigenous traditions.
We arrived just as a priest was closing the church in preparation for a service later that day. Unfortunately, we were unable to visit the interior, but the atmosphere outside was special, nonetheless. The red, blue, white and yellow houses stood in rows among the grass. It was quiet and peaceful, yet also full of meaning.
Native Heritage Centre – a mosaic of cultures
We visited the Native Heritage Centre located just outside Anchorage. The centre showcases eleven indigenous cultures, organised into five groups based on geographical and cultural similarities. Outside, you'll find reconstructed villages, while inside, there are dances, lectures and exhibitions.
We walked past the villages, each of which had its own unique architectural style and symbolism. These ranged from the wooden longhouses of the Tlingit to the whale bone structures of the Iñupiat. In the central building, we watched a dance performance and spoke to a young guide who told us about his Yup'ik heritage. He spoke with pride, but also realistically, about the challenges of preserving traditions in the modern world
Museum of History and Art – stories in marble and textiles
The next day, we visited the Museum of History and Art in Anchorage. Although it is not a large museum, it certainly has character. We saw paintings by Alaskan artists and marble sculptures, as well as a temporary exhibition on birds of prey, which provided information about their habitats, protection and symbolism.
The second floor provided an overview of Alaska's history, from prehistoric artefacts to the Russian period, the Gold Rush, World War II, and modern Alaska. The exhibition of contemporary Native Alaskan art was particularly striking: powerful and full of identity. In the museum shop, we saw some beautiful pieces, including items made from whale bone. Unfortunately, we couldn't take them back to Canada with us.
A glimpse ahead – qiviut and the musk ox
During our visit to the Museum of History and Art, we saw some beautiful scarves and hats made from qiviut, the exceptionally soft undercoat of the musk ox. The texture was refined, the colours natural and the price... fitting. We also learned that qiviut is eight times warmer than sheep's wool, and that it is processed by indigenous women, primarily from the Yup'ik community.
We found the story behind this fibre so fascinating that we decided to visit the Musk Ox Farm in Palmer later in our trip. There, the animals are cared for and respected, and the qiviut is harvested in a unique way. But that's a story for another time.
In the next part of 'The Long Road to Alaska', we travel further to the Kenai Peninsula. We discover the rugged coastline of Homer, the fishing villages along the bay, and get to know life on the edge of the sea and mountains. A new landscape, a different rhythm – and once again, a piece of Alaska that surprises us.