Mussels in escabeche – from Alaska to Salamanca
A food story that begins with wild mussels on Alaska’s Homer Spit and resurfaces in a tapas bar in Salamanca. Discover my recipe for mussels in escabeche – bright, salty, warm and full of memories.
When memories meet in a dish
Some dishes bring together places that are worlds apart. These mussels in escabeche are a great example of this. I didn't eat them that way when we were in Alaska, but the briny taste of the mussels reminded me of two very different moments in my life.
The two memories don't seem to have much in common. But it's only when you take a bite that it hits you: taste can travel, even when you're thousands of miles away.
Alaska: gathering wild mussels on the Homer Spit
In Alaska, everything starts with the tides. And on Homer Spit, when the sea recedes and the beach glistens with shells and driftwood, you can find mussels just waiting to be picked up – they're wild, firm and salty. Gaia walked ahead of me, barefoot in the cold sand and carrying a bucket. She was amazed, and she knew right away that this was a big find. We picked up the mussels one by one, taking our time and showing respect for the place and its abundance.
That evening, I made pasta with nothing more than olive oil, garlic, basil and those wild mussels. The taste was salty and intense. It was pure Alaska on a plate.
Salamanca: discovering escabeche far from the sea
Years later, I found myself in Salamanca, in the heart of inland Spain. A city of golden stone, dry heat and centuries-old history. It has little in common with the windy Homer Spit. But food is at the heart of life here too.
In a tapas bar near the university, I ordered a small dish of mussels in escabeche. Plump, orange mussels in a spicy marinade infused with the aroma of paprika and bay leaves.
And as I sat there, far away from Alaska and the ocean, one bite took me back to that evening in the wilderness.
What exactly is escabeche?
Escabeche is a classic Spanish way of cooking fish, seafood or vegetables, and then marinating them in a mixture of vinegar, olive oil, garlic, bay leaves and paprika.
Although we think of escabeche as a Spanish dish, it's actually a technique used all over the Mediterranean, from Portugal to Italy. It even found its way via colonial routes to the Philippines, where it's still a regular part of people's diets.
But you can't really say that Escabeche is just a marinade. It's a way to preserve food, flavour things, and it's a piece of culinary history. It was invented back when there were no fridges, so people used acids, heat and oil to keep food fresh.
Recipe: mussels in escabeche
These mussels taste like the perfect combination of two very different places: the rugged Alaska coastline and a city in the dry Spanish interior. And it all comes together in one dish – wild and pure, like Alaska, and simple and traditional, like Salamanca.
Ingredients:
- 1 kg mussels (jumbo size)
- 100 ml white wine
- 150 ml olive oil
- 1 large, sweet onion
- 4 cloves of garlic
- 1 tsp black peppercorns
- 8 bay leaves
- 2 dl apple vinegar
- 1 tbsp paprika powder
- Salt (optional)
Tip: For a smoky flavor, use pimentón de la Vera instead of paprika.
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Step 1: Cook the mussels
Clean the mussels. Cook them in white wine until they open. Remove them immediately from the heat and leave them to cool. Remove half of the mussels from their shells. Remove the upper shell from the rest of the mussels. Strain the cooking liquid through a sieve, saving a few spoonfuls for the escabeche. Freeze the rest for later use.
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Step 2: Make the escabeche
Slice the onion into thin strips and cut the garlic cloves into quarters. Fry the onion, garlic, peppercorns and bay leaf slowly in olive oil for about 5 minutes. Use a medium heat to prevent the onions and garlic from browning.
Remove the saucepan from the heat and add the paprika, followed by the cooking liquid, vinegar and a pinch of salt.
Return the bowl to the heat and simmer the escabeche for 5–8 minutes. Leave to cool until the escabeche is lukewarm.
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Step 3: Combine
Pour the escabeche over the mussels.
Leave to cool, then cover and refrigerate for at least one day to allow the flavours to blend well.
![Mussels Escabeche 7]()
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Step 4: Serve
Serve at room temperature on small tapas plates, just as they do in Salamanca.
Tip:
You can store the mussels in escabeche covered in the refrigerator. They will keep for up to 4 days.
![Mussels Escabeche 5]()
