Flemish Sweet Bread Like Grandmother Used to Bake

Part 2 – From memory to a reliable base dough

How to bake traditional Flemish sweet bread like grandmother used to make it: a reliable base recipe with a soft crumb, gentle sweetness and cold fermentation.

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From memory to practice

In Part 1, I talked about my grandmother's sweet bread, as I remember it: a big, round loaf that weighed over a kilo, baked in a heavy metal tin. Golden and shiny on the outside, velvety soft on the inside. It was a loaf that stood out because of how simple it was. You knew it by its scent, its shape, the way she served it.

This second part is all about the practical side of things. I came up with my own basic recipe for Flemish sweet bread to get that taste back. It's not a perfect replica, but it does give a good idea of what made that bread so special: the softness and the mild flavour, which comes from giving the dough plenty of time to rise. There aren't any complicated steps, just a simple method that makes sense, feels reliable and lets the flavours develop.

This is the recipe that the whole series is based on. All the variations that follow – from raisins to rock sugar and cinnamon – start with this dough.

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About the method: why this approach works

A good basic recipe must work well even when some things go wrong. It must be able to produce good results when the kitchen is cold, the timing is off, or someone has less baking experience.

Structure first, softness later

I start by kneading all the ingredients except the butter. During this stage, the gluten forms a network, and the dough becomes cohesive and strong. This is necessary to trap air and ensure even rising later.

Butter has a distinct function. It makes the dough softer and more tender, which is exactly what you want in a sweet bread. However, it also inhibits gluten development. If added too early, the dough will quickly feel soft but often lack consistency. It can become stringy and difficult to work with.

However, by adding the butter once the structure is already in place, its role changes. Rather than disrupting the process, it refines the foundation. The dough remains elastic yet becomes richer and more supple.

Time as an ally

Anyone who knows me personally knows that I bake bread every week, usually with sourdough and a long fermentation process in the fridge. This approach has shaped my view of dough. You don't have to force everything straight away. You build up structure while letting softness happen naturally.

The fridge also plays a key role in this recipe. During cold fermentation, the gluten relaxes naturally, the flavour deepens, and the crumb becomes finer

The result

This method produces a dough that's easy to shape, rises evenly and bakes into a soft, elastic crumb. It's well-proven, easy for anyone to make at home, and you can build on it, which makes it a great starting point for all the recipes in this series that are inspired by the Flemish tradition.

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Frequently asked questions about Flemish sweet bread

Can I use dried yeast instead of fresh yeast?

Yes, that's fine. Just replace the 42 g of fresh yeast with 14 g of dry yeast. Mix the dry yeast into the flour straight away, along with the salt and sugar. The rest of the recipe and timings will remain the same.

Remember that dry yeast takes a little longer to activate, but this isn't an issue in this recipe because of the longer proving time and cold fermentation.

Can I make this sweet bread without cold fermentation?

That's possible, but the result will be slightly different. Without cold fermentation, you’ll still end up with good, sweet bread, but...

  • The flavour will be less intense.
  • The crumb will be slightly less fine.
  • The bread will dry out more quickly.

If you want to skip this step, leave the dough to rest for an extra 60–90 minutes in a cool place after the first rise.

Why does my sweet bread sometimes turn out less soft?

There could be several reasons for this, but it is usually due to one of the following:

  • The dough was kneaded for too long or too vigorously. This caused the gluten to become too tight.
  • The butter was added too early, preventing the structure from developing properly.
  • The bread was overbaked or became too dark.
  • It was stored in the fridge after baking.
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The base recipe for Flemish sweet bread

Ingredients:

(Makes 1 large loaf or 2 smaller ones)

  • 675 g flour (T45/55 or bread flour)
  • 12 g salt
  • 80 g sugar
  • 42 g fresh yeast
  • 180 g whole milk, lukewarm (approx. 30°C)
  • 3 eggs (M), at room temperature
  • 225 g unsalted butter, softened but not melted
  • 1 egg, beaten (for glazing)

  1. Step 1: Making the dough

      • Place all the ingredients except the butter into the bowl of a stand mixer.
      • Knead for 12–15 minutes until the dough is smooth, cohesive, and elastic. It does not need to pass the window test perfectly yet, but it should have a clear structure.

  2. Step 2: Adding the butter

      • Add the butter in chunks, allowing each one to be fully incorporated before adding the next.
      • Then knead for about 5 minutes until the dough comes together nicely and has a slight shine.

  3. Step 3: The first proving

      • Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly greased bowl.
      • Cover and leave to rise until it has clearly increased in volume (1 to 1.5 hours).
      • Then gently knock back the dough.

  4. Step 4: Cold fermentation

    • Cover the dough and place it in the fridge.
    • Leave it to ferment for at least two hours, preferably overnight (up to 24 hours).

  5. Step 5: Shaping and second proving

    • Leave the dough to reach room temperature
    • Shape it into one large loaf or two smaller ones, then place them in a buttered tin.
    • Leave to prove until the dough slowly springs back when pressed with a finger (this takes an average of 45 to 75 minutes).

  6. Step 6: Finishing and baking

    • Lightly brush the bread with beaten egg.
    • Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C.
      • Large loaf: 25–30 minutes.
      • Small loaves: 20–25 minutes.
    • The bread should be golden brown, but not too dark. Leave to cool for at least 15 minutes before slicing.
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  7. Storage and serving

    Store the sweet bread at room temperature, loosely wrapped in a linen cloth or bread bag. The next day, simply refresh it by placing it in an oven at 150°C for a few minutes.

    Flemish sweet bread tastes best when served slightly warm with butter or jam, or simply on its own.

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Continue reading the series

👉 Part 3 – Three classic variations (button)

Raisin bread, Flemish sugar bread with rock sugar, and apple sweet bread: three variations on sweet bread, each with its own unique flavour, but all made using the same basic dough.

👉 Deel 4 – Cinnamon sweet bread (button)

A sweet bread with a gentle spice, warm aromas and a personal memory firmly rooted in tradition.

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