How to grill salmon on a cedar plank: flavour, technique & a foolproof recipe

The cedarwood technique explained 

Red cedar is an important part of the rich heritage of the First Nations people. They used it to build canoes and houses, weave baskets and cook fish using a technique called 'planking'. A large fire was built, and the sides of salmon were attached to cedar planks. They drove the bottom of the planks into the ground so that the salmon could be slowly grilled vertically next to the fire.

Cedarwood's natural oils produce a delightfully soft, aromatic smoke that keeps the fish moist. The wood acts as a buffer, flavouring agent and smoke source all at once. The reason the technique has been used for thousands of years is because it's so natural and simple.

How to use a cedar plank at home 

Fortunately, you don't need to build a smokehouse in your garden. You can try out this centuries-old technique for yourself using just a barbecue and a cedar plank. Soak the plank in cold water for at least an hour to allow the wood to absorb moisture and prevent it from catching fire. When you place the plank on the hot barbecue, it will immediately start to release its aroma. As the warm, aromatic smoke rises, place the salmon on top. Then simply close the lid and let the wood and fire do their work. You'll suddenly be hit by the same soft cedar scent that I smelled in British Columbia – warm, rounded and deep – but in a modern, practical form.

Why cedarwood transforms the flavour 

Cedar wood reacts particularly well to heat, gradually releasing its aroma. While smoke subtly penetrates the flesh of the fish, the plank prevents the underside of the salmon from coming into direct contact with the heat. This ensures the fish cooks evenly, remaining tender and juicy. The wood also enhances the natural sweetness of the salmon, giving the dish a flavour that lies somewhere between grilled and hot-smoked. This technique requires little effort yet produces a striking flavour.

The salmon lifecycle and how it shapes flavour 

The salmon is one of the world's most fascinating migratory fish. Born in ice-cold, oxygen-rich rivers, it moves to the sea as a young fish, only returning to the exact same river years later to spawn. This impressive journey strengthens their muscles and increases their fat content, giving wild salmon a more intense flavour and firmer texture.

The Pacific Ocean is home to five species of wild salmon: sockeye, coho, king, pink and chum. These fish tend to be deeper in colour and have a more robust flavour. Atlantic salmon, farmed in large fjords or basins in countries such as Norway, Scotland, Chile and Iceland, grows more slowly in these environments. This gives it a creamier, softer, fattier texture and a milder flavour. Both varieties have their own unique qualities and both thrive on cedar wood.

Wild vs farmed salmon: which works best? 

Both types are delicious, but they produce different results.

• Wild salmon has a firmer texture and an intense flavour that pairs well with the woody aroma. As wild salmon contains less fat, it cooks faster, so it's best to stay close by while grilling it.
• Farmed salmon is creamier and more forgiving. It retains its juiciness even if left on the plank a little longer. This makes it an excellent choice if you are trying the technique for the first time or if you prefer a buttery texture.

Ultimately, your choice depends on whether you prefer character and intensity or softness and roundness.

The Best Seasonings for Cedar‑Plank Salmon 

As cedar wood has a distinct flavour, simplicity works best. A little coarse sea salt, black pepper and a dash of good olive oil form the ideal base. Lemon slices or lemon zest add freshness, while dill, lemon thyme, or fennel greens add a fragrant, delicate touch. A little maple syrup, as is often used in Canada, adds a soft, subtle sweetness that goes perfectly with the smoke. Avoid heavy marinades, strong sweeteners or smoked herbs with a dominant flavour. Everything this dish needs is already provided by the wood.

Recipe: Cedar‑Plank Salmon (Step‑by‑Step) 

This recipe is not a replica of the traditional smoked salmon from the north, but it does have the same fundamental characteristics. It combines simplicity, warmth and respect for the product. It's a dish that transports you back to a smokehouse in British Columbia. That's exactly why I love making it at home!